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Learning a new skill: changing cam belt


jackb_ms

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There is a good video on YouTube. .... search for cam belt rover or k-series. I put spots of white Tippex on pulleys (2 each pulley) and belt edges before removing old belt. Remove belt and transfer belt spots precisely to new belt. Don't forget there is a rear belt too on the VVC. I was very nervous before I tried ..... but have done several now. It isn't difficult. The tensioner will be manual type on VVC .... not auto tensioner. Consider changing water pump while belt off if more than 5 years old.
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i think i've also seen a neat dodge that involves cutting the old belt in half, lengthwise, whilst it is still in situ.  This then allows space to place the new belt on part way before cutting the old belt completely off and then sliding the new belt completely on.  This way, everything stays aligned.

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Hello

I've seen the video where the engine is on a bench and the video about cutting the cam belt length ways and fit a new one.

 

On the video, the chaps removes the crank pulley, is that necessary on a Caterham?

What is the best way to lock the engine? If it is left in-gear is that ok?

And lastly which kit to buy and where?

Cheers

Jack

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I've seen the video where the engine is on a bench

With the commentary in an Irish accent?

What is the best way to lock the engine? If it is left in-gear is that ok?

It's argued extensively in the archives between:

  • A locking tool on the flywheel (usually to fit "Rovers" and found on eBay, details in the archives, I've asked if anyone will lend one)
  • A screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel
  • Using the drivetrain.

Jonathan

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Most locking tools are for the more conventional starter motor location which is on the other side of the engine (for an Elise or Rover 200/400), I've yet to find one for a Seven, there seem to be two types on eBay one of which requires the engine out of the car. The cam locking tool is readily available for pence but I don't know if there is anything else req'd for a vvc.

If someone on here were to make a specific flywheel locking tool for the type 9 installation in our cars id buy it.

Look at the most excellent DVA site for some pointers to belt replacement (I thought there was a guide but can't find one), even better get the bits from Dave (Gates belt and linished tensioner) or even better still get Dave to do it.

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Yes, the vid is good, at all times keep the slack out of the long part of the belt between the crank pulley and the exhaust cam and then the inlet cam.

Locking tool is correct for a PG1 gearbox (as fitted to an Elise) but not Ford Type 9 as fitted to many Sevens until recently.

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Most locking tools are for the more conventional starter motor location which is on the other side of the engine (for an Elise or Rover 200/400), I've yet to find one for a Seven, there seem to be two types on eBay one of which requires the engine out of the car.

I've seen it described following removal of the starter motor rather than the engine...

Jonathan

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Being from a belt and braces 3rd generation engineering background both the 'big screwdriver' and 'wrong/adapted flywheel locking tool' methods make me feel uncomfortable, inviting Captain Cockup to call means he's going to ring my bloody doorbell!

Risk wise the screwdriver method risks breaking a ring gear tooth (I've never heard of anyone doing this) and the adapted locking tool method just risks it disengaging with the flywheel once you have the belt tensioned, so you'd just line it all back up and go for big lb's foot again. Tensioning the crank pulley nut against the clutch also worries me as you not only fight the clutch springs but load up the centre of the plate and risk bending something?

edit: also sitting in the back of my mind is the thought that I once read on the 'Angus & Tessa' website that they'd had the crank pulley nut drop out once on the North Circ for whatever reason... eek!

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