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Apollo - one way valve?


prs

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I'm about to fit one of these systems and have noticed threads discussing the extra fitting of a one way valve in the top braided hose which returns to the cam cover. Am I right in thinking that the fitment of a valve will stop the oil draining back into the sump, presumably it keeps the oil back through vacuum pressure? If this is the case then on start up oil pressure should be instant rather than the slight delay without. Does anybody know how effective this is and where I can get such a valve.

 

cheers Phil

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Are we sure it doesn't reduce the effect of the Apollo tank by restricting the airflow into the cam cover? Having installed an Apollo tank the top end still sounded a bit unlubricated on fast (track day) right handers, albeit not so much as before. I'd be concerned that the one way valve reduces its air clearing ability.

 

If it's a good idea why doesn't a one way valve come with the Apollo kit?

 

(and why did Caterham sell me a car that can't do fast right handers without eventually trashing the cams?)

 

Ken

 

Edited by - kenevans on 6 Feb 2003 17:29:14

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How easy to fit? Is it just a case of unscrewing one end of the pipe, screwing in the valve and screwing the valve to the cam cover?

Why don't Caterham fit this as standard and is it likely that damage is caused if you don't have one? I have just had an Apollo fitted by Caterham and if it is easy then I would like to fit a one way valve.

Does anyone have a picture?

Shaun

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

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Shaun_E

Send me your email and I'll fwd a pic or two!

 

As to restricting flow Ken.......well only on the return which ain't gonna happen until you turn the engine off!

I asked Caterham why they didn't fit the unit too after completing my mod about a year ago. Was told it was a cost thing!!!

Works out at about 50ukp. Worth every penny for my piece of mind!!! *thumbup*

 

Clamshell Club Founder Member.

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That RS check valve seems like good value (not that I'm a tight git or anything). According to their site it needs a 0.35 bar opening pressure, that seems quite high. The question is, is it too high to let air out of the apollo tank *confused* Anyone’s thoughts appreciated. *smile*

 

Dave

 

 

Edited by - Dave_H on 18 Feb 2003 11:27:15

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The Apollo tank is running at 3-4 bar, so no problem with opening the valve.

 

The only issue might be that a spring loaded valve has a very different effect on flow rates compared to an open restrictor.

 

The restrictor is quite a clever device. It flows at different rates depending on the viscosity of the fluid that is attempting to get past. When the Apollo is full of oil, the restrictor doesn't let much oil get out. When the Apollo has caught some air, the air is low viscosity so whistles through the restrictor much quicker.

 

A spring loaded valve (consider your oil pressure relief valve, or your fuel pressure regulator) maintains a pressure drop (if it is within its operating range). It does this regardless of the fluid viscosity, so when air (instead of oil) is venting, the valve will close down to a smaller opening in order to maintain the pressure. In the Apollo tank installation, this slows down the rate at which air is expelled from the tank.

 

I have been able to observe this effect on datalogs, but came to the conclusion that I preferred oil pressure at startup.

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  • 6 years later...

Hi,

 

I've been advised by Dave Andrews to fit a one way valve, would you guys be kind enough to confirm I need all these bits:

 

From Think

 

Product code Product Description

MFA7-3-4 ALI M/F ST -3JIC X -4JIC

HETF97-3 -3JIC 90o FITTING FOR -3TFE

FBM2099 ALLOY BULKHEAD NUT -4JIC

CVF7 ONE WAY VALVE FLAP -4JIC

 

🤔

 

Cheers

 

M.

 

-------------------------------

Martin Saunders

DVA Power 1.8SS - upgradeitus finally bit me!

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  • 9 months later...

I still think I should get this sorted out. Has anyone else purchased these parts recently and can confirm it all works?

 

M.

 

-------------------------------

Martin Saunders

DVA Power 1.8SS - upgradeitus finally bit me!

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Martin,

 

There is an article in the October 2008 issue of Racecar Engineering magazine recommending the use of a flap valve as described above. It works, but I don't know where you might be able to source the parts.

 

YHBM

 


*smile* Sean
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I've just done it and it works a treat *thumbup*

 

No more rattly tappets when it fires up *cool*

 

Speak to Matt (?) at Think - he knows the bits you need to splice it into the existing braided hose.

 

Easy to do...

 

Edited to say - I can get a list of the parts I used on Friday if that helps...

 

 

Edited by - Tim Pollard on 1 Jul 2010 21:22:07

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Hi Tim,

 

If you wouldn't mind that would be great, yes please. When I spoke to Think they didn't really know what I was on about!

 

Many thanks in advance

 

M.

 

-------------------------------

Martin Saunders

DVA Power 1.8SS - upgradeitus finally bit me!

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You do specifically need to speak to Matt at Think.

 

When I did this back in February he offered me a number of different options. The one I went for, which is the most expensive but most convenient, was a complete hose assembly that directly replaced the original supplied hose but it has the one way valve in-line with it. That way I didn't have to make up any joints or split the existing hose. I can get a photo later if you like.

 

If you speak to Matt tell him he can reference order number OR262444 for reference.

 

Cheers,

 

John

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Part numbers of items I used:

 

CVF7-4 1 way flap valve -4JIC (1 No.)

HETF7-4-3 -4JIC FML Straight for -3TFE (2 No.)

 

The document number on my bill is SI303105 / OR267524 (6/5/2010)

 

Matt is the best contact.

 

Took about half an hour to cut the existing hose and add the valve in.

 

HTH

 

Edited by - Tim Pollard on 2 Jul 2010 08:55:25

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