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X-Flow Oil Surge


chrisb

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Tis me again!

Having looked at fitting a dry sump, and decided that I need to do a bit more saving up first, is there anything else I can do to reduce oil surge?

At present, I only have to stop quick, and the oil pressure drops alarmingly for a moment 😳

Is there likely to be a problem in the sump, or is this rapid drop in pressure normal.

Thanks

Chris

 

PS It doesn't drop under moderate braking.

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The sump in my 84 spec xflow has never shown me any serge (TOUCHES WOOD) and thats with Yoko21s.. OK Im not the fastest out there by some margin but Iv never even seen a flutter on the gauge.

 

Chris

minus 10 outside and over a foot of snow.. *eek*

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As Anthony says, worth investigating further. Are you reying on the oil pressure gauge in the car? How do you know that it is accurate? First thing i would do is substitute that gauge with one that is known to be ok! Other than that i have not heard or oil surge to this extreme, unless on a racing track. If all else fails, check in sump by dropping it to see if the oil pick up pipe has been bent or broken or loose, or the strainer is blocked!

 

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Not sure about the accuracy of the guage, but it hasn't given me any reason to beleive it is faulty.

When cold, above 2K RPM pressure at 5, during idle this drops to approx 3.

When oil is hot, pressure remains 4.75 - 5 on the guage above 4K, 3- 4 down to about 2k, and 2 during tickover.

The pressure drops right down if I stop quickly, and then shoots back up.

This is what I would expect if the oil pick-up is right at the back, and slopping about like water in an ice cream tub!

Chris

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Sorry, will engage brain first, pipe is at the back *mad* Does your dipstick look like someone has Hacksawed a line on it to indicate the oil level in the sump, if so it is possible that your oil level is far to low! Have you ever measured the amount of oil you put in your car?

 

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Can't say that I've noticed any saw marks in the dipstick.

Only had the car since September. Sent it to John Noble motorsport just after I got it. They carried out a major service, and converted the head to unleaded, and assured me it was bolted together properly.

 

Just wanted to know it was right before I started tinkering.........

 

Now I'm learning more and more, and getting more adventurous with a spanner *eek*

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If the sump has taken a few hits, it is possible that the pick up pipe has been partly blocked by the sump itself. There is not a great deal of clearance between the pipe and the bottom of the sump when all is correct, but if the sump is bashed it is not unknown for it to end up touching the pipe.

 

The Caterham wet sump is a little prone to surge, but it is normally OK for road use. What you describe sounds like there is a problem. That said, dry sump is a good investment.

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OK, so if I go down the route of a dry sump, I'm not sure I would want to fit it myself *confused* all seems a little complex for a novice like me. How much should I look to pay to have one fitted?

I've also heard rumours that dry sumps offer a little bit more power 😬 - not that I need it or anything.....

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Only worth thinking about if you are going to go racing on Track days and like, or your going to uprate the engine, putting a dry sump on a standard engine will not release much power in terms of power to money ratio! ☹️

 

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Chrisb

 

Don’t know where you are, and what your next moves are but your problems got me to thinking.

 

Thinking – my oil pressure is REALLY low at times and I think my engine may be kn******d.

 

I have a low pressure switch (separate from the pressure gauge) the setting of which was unknown + standard caterham pressure gauge..

 

SO I checked everything out. Took pressure switch and had it checked vs national traceable standard. Found that it goes off at EXACTLY 400mbar. (i.e. VERY LOW pressure – but there's no damping so this light can come on and go off again without the in-car pressure gauge flickering below 2 bar).

 

Bought and calibrated (again to a National traceable standard) a 0-11bar gauge.

 

This is what I found. (I don’t really know what it says about my engine – possibly someone will tell me – but I do know what it says about the standard fitment gauge)

 

Car gauge (bar) Calibrated Gauge (bar)

COLD

Tickover (750rpm) 2.9 3.1

2000 rpm 3.1 4.2

3000 rpm 4.5 6.0

4000 rpm * 7.0 ~10.2

HOT **

Tickover 1.5 2.1

(and no surge when throttle blipped)

2000 1.8 2.75

3000 1.9 3.5

4000 2.0 4.25

 

* don’t normally rev it to 4000 when cold !

** Fan running after a 5 mile blat and 5 minutes sitting in garage.

 

The standard gauge appears massively damped, and more inaccurate as the engine bay warms up, (WHY ???) and almost a waste of dashboard space.

 

My next step is to buy a ¼” NPT “T” piece and a 2.0bar switch. To compliment the 0.4 bar “oh b****r” switch currently installed.

 

Note – I can get the 0.4 bar switch to activate – heavy breaking, no throttle, right hand bend (the one just before home!!!).

 

If someone wants to comment on these pressures then please do - on Forum or via e-mail.

 

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