TomB Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Hi, I've a problem with my right rear upper damper thread. It is weak and getting weaker each time I refit the rear dampers. It appears a threaded boss is welded to the rear of the bracket, and at some point in the cars life the thread has been damaged. I used to be about to torque it up to 45-50N/m now I daren't go above 30N/m. Aside from a welding job to replace the boss, what are my options? The one that seems most viable to me is to put a longer bolt on, tighten all the way through the boss, then fit a nut to sit against the boss, allowing it all to be squeezed together. This would entail making a hole in the boot side of the damper turret large enough to to take a socket, but that's a small price to pay for a secure damper. any thoughts or experience with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 23, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted February 23, 2016 TomWhat you propose is exactly what I would suggest. If you insert a long bolt if will make a mark on the alluminium in the boot. You can then open it up to take a socket and a long bolt and nylock nut. A rubber grommet to fill the hole will finish the job. Thread is 1/2 inch UNF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon.Rogers Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Agreed - clean out the threaded boss and use the longer bolt. Simples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 As Im in the office and before I order one from eBay, is anyone able to confirm the length of the standard caphead bolt to which I can add an inch on and Ill have a long enough bolt. Are they Caphead 1/2 inch UNF x 3 inch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Is it in Shaun's bolt list?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Yes, 2.5 inches. That list is very useful, thanks for pointing it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 To close, I've fitted a slightly longer bolt and torqued all up to 60ft/lbs. The only snag is the bolt isn't quite long enough to engage the locking part of the nyloc nut. That will be ok won't it? The original boss isn't a nyloc after all. I could fit a longer bolt but I'll have 1/2 inch protruding into the boot, or I'll have to cut down the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 I'm confused: is the bolt now engaging on the threaded boss or only on the nut?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Longer bolt through boss and secured with a nyloc. Condition of threads in welded boss now irrelevant as the new nyloc is doing the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 I'd just cut the longer bolt, then at least you know the Nyloc is fully engaged as per its design, rather than taking a chance on 'that'll be OK won't it?' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 I suppose you're right, thats the proper way to do it. Hopefully the Dremel will make short work of it as they are big bolts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Alternatively use threadlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 That bolt is only holding the top of the damper in place and is loaded in shear with no rotating loads so, apart from stopping it from pulling/vibrating out, the nut's not doing too much. The original fixing is just a plane thread so you don't really need a nyloc so long as it's reasonably tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Paul, that was my thinking - its torqued to the specified 60ft/libs and was originally a threaded boss, so not fully engaging the nylon sleeve wont be the end of the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggerman Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 You could do it the old fashioned way.http://www.helicoil.in/pdf/helicoil%20catalogue.pdfpeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Not too bothered about the nylon locking bit, but I'd want to ensure there was enough thread engagement in the nut using the traditional rules of thumb.I'm not an expert at cutting down bolts, but I run a nut up to the head end of the thread first and then bring that down and off after cutting to try and improve the thread where it's cut. Never studied if it makes a significant difference.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 I'm happy that there is plenty of thread engaged, the nut is about 12mm deep, and it's just 1mm or so short of the nyloc nylon ring. I'll cut a longer bolt down later. 10minutes with the dremel will sort it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 10 minutes with a Dremell, 1 minute with a hacksaw, or is this a grade 10.9 or 12. 5 bolt, a bit longer and packet of blades if that is the case. If its an 8.8 bolt a hacksaw blade will do the trick. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Ive sorted it really easily - I had a rumage in my nuts and found a thinner nyloc, now fitted has a couple of threads through the locking section. Sorted, onto the next problem.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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