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Damaged damper mount thread


TomB

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Hi, I've a problem with my right rear upper damper thread. It is weak and getting weaker each time I refit the rear dampers.  

It appears a threaded boss is welded to the rear of the bracket, and at some point in the cars life the thread has been damaged. I used to be about to torque it up to 45-50N/m now I daren't go above 30N/m. 

Aside from a welding job to replace the boss, what are my options? The one that seems most viable to me is to put a longer bolt on, tighten all the way through the boss, then fit a nut to sit against the boss, allowing it all to be squeezed together. This would entail making a hole in the boot side of the damper turret large enough to to take a socket, but that's a small price to pay for a secure damper. 

any thoughts or experience with this? 

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Tom

What you propose is exactly what I would suggest. If you insert a long bolt if will make a mark on the alluminium in the boot. You can then open it up to take a socket and a long bolt and nylock nut. A rubber grommet to fill the hole will finish the job. 

Thread is 1/2 inch UNF. 

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As Im in the office and before I order one from eBay, is anyone able to confirm the length of the standard caphead bolt to which I can add an inch on and Ill have a long enough bolt.  Are they Caphead 1/2 inch UNF x 3 inch? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

To close, I've fitted a slightly longer bolt and torqued all up to 60ft/lbs. The only snag is the bolt isn't quite long enough to engage the locking part of the nyloc nut. That will be ok won't it? The original boss isn't a nyloc after all. I could fit a longer bolt but I'll have 1/2 inch protruding into the boot, or I'll have to cut down the bolt. 

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That bolt is only holding the top of the damper in place and is loaded in shear with no rotating loads so, apart from stopping it from pulling/vibrating out, the nut's not doing too much.  The original fixing is just a plane thread so you don't really need a nyloc so long as it's reasonably tight.

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Not too bothered about the nylon locking bit, but I'd want to ensure there was enough thread engagement in the nut using the traditional rules of thumb.

I'm not an expert at cutting down bolts, but I run a nut up to the head end of the thread first and then bring that down and off after cutting to try and improve the thread where it's cut. Never studied if it makes a significant difference.

Jonathan

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I'm happy that there is plenty of thread engaged, the nut is about 12mm deep, and it's just 1mm or so short of the nyloc nylon ring. I'll cut a longer bolt down later. 10minutes with the dremel will sort it. 

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