Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

K series cam timing- a sanity check


Albert Donaldson

Recommended Posts

Good afternoon,

I'm presently in the final stages of putting together a new k-series engine and am looking for a little bit of guidance when putting the head and bottom end together for the first time.

As I see it I have two options:

1)(preferred) set the cam timing on the head on the bench, assemble to bottom end with pistons at mid stroke, bring piston 1 up to TDC gently, check for valve piston contact if all ok fit timing belt and check cam timing again

2)Set the cams at safe position with old non vernier timing pulleys  set pistons at 90 deg BTDC fit timing belt, bring no.1 up to TDC then swap the timing pulleys for the verniers and set cam timing.

I'm fitting 1444 cams with omega pistons and have the feeling that there may be no safe position as in option 2.

The other question I have is with regard to the engine management. I'm running an emerald with wasted spark and batched injection-presumably this means it is not possible to get the timing 360 deg out as fuel and spark are available whether on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke ie ultimately the opening and closing of the valves are determining whether a power stroke occurs or not? I had a bad experience in my youth with a ford transit where I managed to do exactly this and hole a piston- I don't want to repeat.

Sanity check appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the method I use for initial cam timing. It is safe and reliable.

Transfer the timing marks from the original pulleys to the verniers as per my web page.

Set the engine at 90BTDC on number one.

Fit the head. 

Attached the cam pulleys, if the valves are oversized them make sure you turn the pulleys when attached in unison and synchronised as the valves can touch one another.

Align the pulleys at their 90BTDC position as per my web page/K engine page.

Attach the belt and tension it.

retard the inlet pulley 10 degrees

advance the exhaust pulley 10 degrees.

then it will be safe to turn to TDC to measure valve lift.

with wasted spark and a crank sensor you can't go wrong.

 

Oily

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...