Another dry sump install question :o( Gold pump/metric chassis

[Superwhite R283]

Ok, so the rover k CC dry sump bellhousing tank doesn't work with a metric chassis, so i've put the original bellhousing back on and put the engine back in only to find out that the gold pump bracket fouls the steering arm  

here

here

The engine needs to go a little lower than this to get the bolts into the engine, also there needs to be space for the engine to vibrate/move, so questions:

1) Has anyone fitted a gold pump to a metric S3

2) What are peoples thoughts on cutting some of the casting away to clear the steering arm??

3) Has anyone fitted the pace dry sump to a metric S3 (not that i really want to buy another dry sump kit  )

All i can say is ive learnt a lot about the car doing this.......

[Adrian Williams]

It's very tight with an imperial chassis so might not be a 'metric' issue as such.

Try loosening the steering rack clamps and rotating the rack so that the column is raised slightly, might just give you the clearance you need.

Hope that works fo you.

[Englishmaninwales]

As Adrian says it is tight. I ground away loads of metal off the pump carrier and raised the engine slightly.

/sites/default/files/images/users/5928/IMG_1836.JPG

[Mankee]

Crikey Darren. You're not having a fun time with this one are you?

[2GBR]

As stated rotate the rack within its clamps, if still close then grind meat from the carrier

[LesG]

Hi there, I had a similar clearance issue when I converted my Imperial S3 from XFlow to K series, and a combination of filing away the pump housing, making sure steering column is as straight as possible, and raising the engine on the mounts sorted it. Keep the faith!

[Superwhite R283]

Thanks chaps.

 

My column is pretty straight (ie UJ is straight), so I assume I need to rotate the rack to increase the angel on the UJ.

 

What’s the best way to raise the engine, add washers under the two chassis bolts/rubber mount or in-between engine mount/rubber? Or a combination of both?

 

Mankee: Part of me is tempted to put the Apollo back in and call it a day. On the plus side I've learnt a lot and have had good clean up/paint etc of the engine bay/chassis, tidied the loom route, fitted a new clutch/cover/spigot bearing etc, and loads of other good jobs.

[Paul McKenzie]

The way I do it is to add washers between the engine mount bracket and the rubber mount....but depending on how much you raise the engine you might want to use a quarter inch longer bolt!

[Superwhite R283]

Just in case anyone searches for this in the future, it works, close but works and I didnt need to use washers on the engine mount in the end.

 

One new imperial/metric problem is that the J hose from the water pump to the top radiator connection (via the submarine pipe) cant go in the normal location (above the gold pump) as it would hit the duratec metric oil tank, so a little re routing and it works (running beside the oil tank)