Superwhite R283 Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Ok, so the rover k CC dry sump bellhousing tank doesn't work with a metric chassis, so i've put the original bellhousing back on and put the engine back in only to find out that the gold pump bracket fouls the steering arm herehereThe engine needs to go a little lower than this to get the bolts into the engine, also there needs to be space for the engine to vibrate/move, so questions:1) Has anyone fitted a gold pump to a metric S32) What are peoples thoughts on cutting some of the casting away to clear the steering arm??3) Has anyone fitted the pace dry sump to a metric S3 (not that i really want to buy another dry sump kit )All i can say is ive learnt a lot about the car doing this....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Williams Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 It's very tight with an imperial chassis so might not be a 'metric' issue as such.Try loosening the steering rack clamps and rotating the rack so that the column is raised slightly, might just give you the clearance you need.Hope that works fo you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 As Adrian says it is tight. I ground away loads of metal off the pump carrier and raised the engine slightly./sites/default/files/images/users/5928/IMG_1836.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Crikey Darren. You're not having a fun time with this one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2GBR Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 As stated rotate the rack within its clamps, if still close then grind meat from the carrier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Hi there, I had a similar clearance issue when I converted my Imperial S3 from XFlow to K series, and a combination of filing away the pump housing, making sure steering column is as straight as possible, and raising the engine on the mounts sorted it. Keep the faith! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superwhite R283 Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 Thanks chaps. My column is pretty straight (ie UJ is straight), so I assume I need to rotate the rack to increase the angel on the UJ. What’s the best way to raise the engine, add washers under the two chassis bolts/rubber mount or in-between engine mount/rubber? Or a combination of both? Mankee: Part of me is tempted to put the Apollo back in and call it a day. On the plus side I've learnt a lot and have had good clean up/paint etc of the engine bay/chassis, tidied the loom route, fitted a new clutch/cover/spigot bearing etc, and loads of other good jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 The way I do it is to add washers between the engine mount bracket and the rubber mount....but depending on how much you raise the engine you might want to use a quarter inch longer bolt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superwhite R283 Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Just in case anyone searches for this in the future, it works, close but works and I didnt need to use washers on the engine mount in the end. One new imperial/metric problem is that the J hose from the water pump to the top radiator connection (via the submarine pipe) cant go in the normal location (above the gold pump) as it would hit the duratec metric oil tank, so a little re routing and it works (running beside the oil tank) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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