Julian H Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 ... do I need to reterminate my battery cables.One of my tasks this winter is to do some tidying under the bonnet; when I relocate my battery the cables will be far too long, hence wanting to cut off the excess.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 16, 2015 Member Share Posted November 16, 2015 Why do you want to solder rather than only crimp?What metal cable are you planning... aluminium? Would that be light enough? :-)JonathanPS: I'd buy ready-made or borrow a heavy-duty crimper... or ask an owner nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian H Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Its soldered already so I was going to replicate what was there. If I go the crimping route I will take up your suggestion. I was planning on using the finest silver plated unobtainium fibres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 16, 2015 Member Share Posted November 16, 2015 Presumably it's even more important to run the crystals the right way in this sort of DC configurations than with (AC) speaker cables. And don't forget the low-oxygen metal.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian H Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 The cables are marked for directionality, just like those for my hifi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 16, 2015 Member Share Posted November 16, 2015 Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian H Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Erm, is more my era.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 You would need something more than a domestic electric soldering iron .....probably an old-school lump of metal that you heat in a gas flame. I would just crimp it with the right tool ..... or get it crimped at your local car spares shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Crimps are more reliable than solder in an automotive application. Solder will wick down between the strands of the cable, making it stiff. Vibration will then concentrate stresses where the solder ends. In addition, unless you have access to industrial strength flux residue removal chemicals, the flux residue (which is acidic) will corrode the cable over time.If you do go with solder, use a plumbers blowtorch rather than an electric soldering iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 When I soldered on terminals in the past, I have used the gas hob in the kitchen. It is tricky not to melt the first part of insulation though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thompster Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 To solder big wires you need a big tip that will hold a lot of heat, something like a portasol gas iron with a 4.8mm tip will do the job (google it). Portasols are fantastic - standard issue for BT, or at least they used to be.If you try and use a small electric iron the wire will just act like a heatsink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Nuts Garage Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Absolutely spot on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Julian, if you're talking about the big cables to the battery then get them crimped at an automotive electrics place. Any tiny ones can be soldered if you want but again a good crimp of the right size is the best option in auto electrics.I know somewhere in Maidstone that would do it economically if you popped in, but there ought to be somewhere more local to you.Somewhere like Curd Brothers in T.Wells or maybe go to www.all-car-electrics.com workshops to avoid a call out fee? A quick google also brought up these guys in Hailsham that might be worth a visit (even just to see what they have in!) http://classiccarelectrics.co.uk/ If you're shortening the main cable that goes to the starter then I would suggest replacing the whole cable as the starter end can degrade a lot due to the heat from the primaries and be a significant contributor to the 'click' non-starting problem as it gets worse. (btw if you do change it, I'd be interested to take a good look and have a measure of the old one out of interest). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian H Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Thanks for all the great advice. I will see if my father has a crimping tool [he worked in marine electronics] and if appropriate re-terminate. Ian, will I be able to see the deterioration of my original cable? I wonder if cutting the excess off at the starter would be more prudent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I would agree that it's better to trim the starter end as that end will have had more aggressive temperature cycles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 You probably won't be able to see it easily, and as above if you're going to cut it then cut off the starter motor end. Personally I'd measure the length you need and get a complete new one made up at an Auto Electrics place *thumbsup* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian H Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Dad does not have a crimping tool so I might just get a new one Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyboanerges Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 80watt electric soldering iron did it for me! (£30 ish)Used Lead/tin solder though, not the leadless stuff.Good luck,tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Good call Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Shelley Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Another vote for crimping from me. Saves the weight of the solder too!!Seeya Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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