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Sigma engine removal


Englishmaninwales

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Fuel connector is a simple, you can do it with you fingers, just push the clip.  The tensioner has to come off.   I removed the alternator as well but I guess you dont need to do that.   The tensioner can only be pulled off the studs when its clear of the column, so don't forget to put it back on the studs as you lower it back in.    There are engine manuals online, which I found to be a great help getting the flywheel bolt settings correct.

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Hi Malcolm

I did this on the SV recently to replace the clutch slave.  Like you I could do the K or Busa blindfolded and upsidedown but at certain times on the SV Sigm I thought why the bloody hell do I need to do that!!!!

Eg had to remove the steering column to allow No1 primary to come out from under the column.  All due to a stud in the head not a bolt!!!!!  AAGGHHHH!

My friendly Sigma Hotline at PGM even got to the what do you bloody want now :-o

In the end its a liitle longer but realistically not to different just that you need to do some different things.

Cam belt tensioner needs to come off for instance.  Call me if you wish!

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I did this earlier this year.

Removing the auxillary belt tensioner and alternator makes it easier, but I didn't remove the steering column. Removing and refitting the primaries is possible on an S3, but does look tricky.

Duncan

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Yes Andy and I were comparing things S3 to SV.  So steering column is under primary 4 on the S3 but over on the SV and its the last stud in the head that stops it coming out.  If that was a bolt it would be OK.  

Conversely the belt tensioner comes off with the engine still in place on the SV.  So you don't need to lift first and remember to slot it back on before lowering.

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