Duratec 6sp bellhousing to engine fixings - washers?

[griffchris]

As per the title, I'm getting stuck into my 420R (R400) build.  The engine is supplied with the bellhousing attached, and according to Caterham it does not need to be removed and is supplied correctly bolted and torqued.

However, one of the bellhousing to engine bolts is completely loose, and there are no washers on any of the bolts, apart from spring washers on the 2 rearward facing bolts on the righthand side.  I have phoned Caterham and they say this is correct (apart from the loose bolt), but before the engine and gearbox go into the car at the end of the week, I'd just like to double check that other Duratec 6sp combos have been fixed without washers?

Thanks 

Chris

[John Vine]

When I built my R400D (2008), the bellhousing wasn't pre-fitted and torqued up.

I'm away from home at the moment so can't check either the car or my hardcopy Assembly Guide but, IIRC, all the bellhousing-to-engine bolts had spring washers.

The following paragraph (from Section 5 Page 3 of the 2010 AG PDF) seems to support this:

8 Using the fixings supplied, connect the engine and gearbox; two bolts (2) and spring washers (10), pass forward from the top of the bell-housing into the cylinder block, two more bolts (2) and spring washers, pass forward from the bottom of the bell-housing into the sump. Two bolts (1) and spring washers pass rearward through the 'ears' on the engine assembly and into the bell-housing on the RH side, one further bolt (1) and spring washer passes forward from the LH side of the engine into the bell-housing.

However, now that CC appear to pre-attach the b/h for the 6-speed, perhaps things have changed (as suggested by their comment to you).

Re the loose bolt, I suspect that's the one for the black battery-earth cable.

JV

[griffchris]

Thanks John, I'd read that paragraph but I wasn't clear that this necessarily applied to the Duratec/6sp.  I had a verbal conversation with Derek on Friday, but I think I will send an email to ask for further confirmation.  Can any current/recent builders shed any light on this?

Thanks

Chris

[Grubbster]

Not sure I follow - if the bellhousing is already fitted to the engine how will you fit the gearbox to the bellhousing?

[griffchris]

The Duratec/6sp instructions for connecting the bellhousing to gearbox, p72 current guide are as follows, and seem straightforward:

Duratec:  Do not remove bell-housing, smear silicone sealant over the O ring and place around the selector rod. Using 4 M10x35 bolts with spring and plain washers supplied in the gearbox pack bolt from the outside and torque to 35Nm.

My concern is bellhousing to engine, this was preattached, and according to Derek does not require any additional "work" - however I was a little concerned by the obviously loose bolt and lack of washers as per above.  In addition there is the section referred to above by John Vine, from p75, which clearly describes the use of spring washers, though as with many parts of the guide it isn't entirely clear whether this refers to all engine/gearbox variants - though there is specifically a separate section for the "new" 5 speed gearbox.  For obvious reasons I'm keen to be absolutely sure I've got this right before the engine goes in.

Chris

[Grubbster]

Apologies, my comment was based on my understanding of how the K series bellhousing fits. So on the duratec I assume the clutch is hydraulic so the CRB and slave cylinder are prefitted and therefore the geabox can be added and bolted from the outside.

[John Vine]

So on the duratec I assume the clutch is hydraulic so the CRB and slave cylinder are prefitted and therefore the geabox can be added and bolted from the outside.

That's correct, Steve. 

I seem to recall that, when I fitted a 6sp to my old K (way back in 2003), the four threaded gearbox mounting points were in fact blind, so that the g/b could only be attached from inside the b/h.  When I built my Duratec, the four holes were open but still threaded.  This worried me a little as I didn't much like the idea of a bolt shank making contact with just threads.  I queried this with CC at the time, who advised it was quite OK.  Out of interest, are these holes still threaded?

Chris: assuming the loose b/h bolt is indeed for the battery earth, when you come to fit this, check that the tab of the connector will fit inside the bolt-head recess. If not, use a fat spacer washer to fill out the recess.  I failed to do this, and ended up chopping right through the tab as I tightened the bolt!

JV