ps01 Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 HiI am going to do the QED remote thermostat upgrade. I have searched the forum which has been helpful on the pros/cons/alternatives but I haven’t found much guidance on which temperature thermostat to use. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each in the real world and what do people typically use. The options are 75/82/88 degrees. Car is a K series 1.8 DVA tuned to 185 bhp. Useage is 70% road and 30% track. Main problem I am trying to fix is car overheating and coolant escaping through the expansion tank when car is static.ThanksPaul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I would suggest 82 degrees however, what temperature does you fan kick in, is it controlled by the switch in the rad or ECU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Are all your hoses getting hot to the same level ? Sounds like you may have an airlock in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps01 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 ThanksCurrently fan kicks in at 88 degrees (rad switch). I was thinking of going to a lower temp on the fan rad switch so that it comes on lower than currently so I am happy to change that to optimise the system and get everything running a bit cooler. Should I get a fan switch that is coming on the same temp or higher temp than when the thermostat opens.? The garage are certain there is not any airlock from the testing they have done.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 You want the fan to be set higher than the thermostat. I have an 82C thermostat and a fan switch in the top of the rad set to come on at 95C. Car sits at 80C all day long ... even at 41C shade temperatures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Try changing cap of expansion bottle. They can fail and release early. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps01 Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share Posted August 29, 2015 Thanks for the commentsOK I will probably go with an 82 degree thermostat and 88 degree fan switch which will allow a quicker warm up to 82 degrees and then the fan cutting in at a reasonable temp? I don’t think I want the fan cutting in too much lower than this if low 80’s should be normal operating temp (i.e. fan might be cutting in all the time then which would be undesirable).The only residual question I have is then is there a benefit from having the thermostat lower at 75 degrees. I assume this might help with less thermal shock to the engine? (i.e. opens earlier and therefore temp difference when the cooler water comes in is less). To be honest I am guessing a bit at this so any observations would be appreciated!!SM25T – Good point I will check the coolant cap however regardless of this I still want to solve the fact that the temp creeps to close to 100 degrees sometimes when static for a long time (i.e. this is something I don’t like even before there is an issue with coolant escaping).Looks like a lot of people have inconsistent cooling and temps with these K-series (and some people have no problem at all) – it seems like its not an exact science…!Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 Before going to the great expense of the QED thermostat, try the simple cooling system mod detailed in Low Flying September 2012. I have a pdf copy if you want it emailing. I think I would stick with a 95C fan switch .... any lower and it will be on too much. What mileage on the car ... may be worth replacing the water pump for peace of mind. They can leak, or the impeller can fail if plastic. Make sure the new one has a steel impeller. While you are doing the water pump ... cambelt too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 31, 2015 Member Share Posted August 31, 2015 Duplicate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 31, 2015 Member Share Posted August 31, 2015 If the problem is overheating when the car is up to temperature and static how will the plumbing changes help, please? I'm assuming that the thermostat is already open and the fan running and the cap is now checked and OK.ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps01 Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 garage don't think the thermostat is opening properly not helped by where it is. Hard for me to check/know as car is with them. Fan is working and no air locks. Maybe I should just ask them to do the mod from low flying sep 2012 first. Thanks Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps01 Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 SM25T I would be grateful if you could email me the pdf of the mod article from LF. ThanksPaul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Worth a try. Low cost. Easy to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 You could always try removing the stat completely and seeing how it behaves. You may need to block off part of the rad to keep some coolant temperature in the system though. If it decides to play ball after removing the stat, chuck a QED remote stat/standard OEM Rover stat housing in the top hose so that there is something reacting to the temperature of the coolant coming out of the engine and controlling flow to the rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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