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K Series Stopped Whilst running - now won't start.


Simon.Rogers

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Just been round with David Nelson who's car was running earlier today.  Now its not!

1.8 K on MEMS.  EU2

He was driving home from MOT and it simply stopped.  I was away with Penske so no help but tonight made a little progress.

Initially no power to ECU.  A couple of swaps between MFRU's and it suddenly began to power up.  Now working on both?  No 12v comming out from the MFRU's in the first place. Imobiliser seems to be turning on and off (although I don't trust any imobiliser).

Zero spark on the plugs.  David has already changed the Crank sensor.

I think there are multiple issues - which just confuse when tracing.  My guess is that given this engine has stood unused along with loom and ECU etc for a few years damp/corrosion could be the issue?

However I would go for it not starting in the first place but why just stop?  Plenty of fuel.  Its lack of spark that is the issue.

At least now the IVAC initiates.

Any ideas?

What does the Imobiliser talk to?  Presume its the ECU  not the MFRU?

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Simon

Now you have power to the ECU I would check for a spark from the coil lead to earth as the dizzy cap and rotor arms are known weak points. If no spark the coil is the likely point of failure hence my request for the spares box to be at Curbs. I suggest David still comes to Curbs and I am confident we will find the fault. I doubt it is the immobiliser as even when 'armed' the engine will initially run for a few seconds before stopping. I assume it still has the original Rover immobiliser fitted.

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My guess is that given this engine has stood unused along with loom and ECU etc for a few years damp/corrosion could be the issue?

However I would go for it not starting in the first place but why just stop?  Plenty of fuel.  Its lack of spark that is the issue.

  • Battery voltage at rest and while cranking?
  • Inspect and clean all relevant feeds and earths including ECU earth.
  • How do you know the ECU is now getting enough volts?

Jonathan

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It just stopped. Did 3 miles to the mot passed and then drove a short distance and lost power at 5000rpm so hit the kill switch. Has not started since but turns over. No spark spark plug or ht lead. 

Redline dispatch new coil, dizzy cap and ht lead. Already changed rotor arm and crank senser.

 

Now on train back home hope to get it sorted tomorrow

 

Thanks to all who are helping 

 

David

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Just wondering what it cuts off ... I know that cutting a traditional master switch while it's running can lead to large voltage spikes from the alternator when the battery load is removed (which should be dumped through a resistor). Just wondering if the "kill switch" could possibly have lead to a voltage spike which could have damaged the ECU? Not sure how it is wired so may be of no relevance.

 

 

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