grumpy the 7th Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I'm sure the treaded tube over the damper body, supported by a circlip should slide off and allow me to replace the circlip lower down the damper. BUT it doesn't want to move (grrrh!) copious amounts of 'WD40', Halford's 'Shock and Release', and 'Free It'. Dont want to use any heat or use too much force in case I damage the shocker body.Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 5, 2015 Member Share Posted August 5, 2015 Someone else solved this recently... and I think it was "more of the same". I'll have a look.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 5, 2015 Member Share Posted August 5, 2015 Recommended tool... but (imagine the voice here) that is not the thread I was looking for.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Numpty question.......... Does the circlip need removing BEFORE removing the threaded tube? I cant see any holes in the ends to compress it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 You have to remove the Circlip around the damper body before you can remove the outer tube. You need to open the circlip, not compress it. Use a flat screwdriver to winkle it out of the groove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Cant get to the circlip as its under the tube I assumed I could just slide the tube away from the circlip to remove circlip then slide the tube off - but the tube won't budge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Have you already removed the spring from the damper ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted August 5, 2015 Area Representative Share Posted August 5, 2015 The sleeve should move freely on the damper body.I've seen several cars where the sleeves have been stuck to the damper body with Loctite to stop the sleeves spinning to offer easier adjustment. All of these cars have previously been worked on by race teams......I've destroyed a couple trying to get them off...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Yes the spring is off and the dampers were 2nd hand from a racer (that could be the issue) as it just wont move "even with a bit of BF&I" but not too much. Think I'll pop it back on and think about it. Thanks folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Try warming sleeve with a hot air gun to soften loctite and rotating it with pipe fitting pliers and a cloth to prevent scratching ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Have already tried gentle heat from a blow torch with damper clamped as tight as I dare, put the sleeve holding spanner on the flats and gave it some "belts" and it still wouldn't move (the spanner eventually rounded off the flats) So! that's when I gave up.Now I can't get the bottom bolt into the dedion hole, it only goes 1/2 way in. (I changed Dedion a couple of years ago with out any problems) I wanted to tap the hole and die the bolt (which looks ok), so assume something in the hole???Anybody know what size the bottom bolt thread is - It's not 12mm and not 1/4 bsp (they're the only taps & dies that are anything near it) I suppose it could be a UNF ??The bolt is 12.54mm diameter (therefore slightly bigger than a 12m bolt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted August 5, 2015 Area Representative Share Posted August 5, 2015 Bottom bolt holding shocker to de dion is 1/2 inch UNF. Be careful it's all too easy to cross thread (you may already have done so by the sound of things. To line things up it sometimes helps to turn the shocker through 180 degrees as rubbers tend to stick in a not quite straight position - if you see what I mean. To ensure bolt goes in straight it's sometimes better to remove the top link of the de dion so that de dion can be twisted to help line up bolt exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 If Imperial .... I would go for UNF. It certainly won't be BSP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Turn the shock upside down and smack the platform with a hammer downwards. Rust, loctite, Bilstein stickers will all try to hold it on but it should come off.The De Dion tube is probably 1/2" UNF. It is also hard to get the bolt straight into the thread as the shock tends to try to move it another way.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Those dimensions sound like 1/2" UNF .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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