AntonyH Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Hi all,How easy (or otherwise) is it to adjust the front camber?Is it "merely" undoing the top ball joint, screwing the arm out a bit, retightening the locknut, re-attach ball joint, job done? Or will the whole lot explode once I start undoing things?Any other pitfalls to watch for / vital torque numbers?After our refurb our front camber is a lot more "race" than it used to be, meaning that the tyres that had enough tread a week ago are now rather conical and verging on slick on the inner edges, after 7 days on the Isle of Man. Don't really want to put fresh tyres on without first setting the wheels rather closer to vertical, as they previously were, however I need to fit the new tyres before I can get to a professional mechanic...Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Slotter Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 You can borrow some wheels/tyres if you want to get it to a proper setup place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted June 5, 2015 Area Representative Share Posted June 5, 2015 As you describe, but car needs to be on axle stands with suspension at full droop. Splitting the top ball joint can be a bit tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Thanks both. I'll take a look in the garage after work (axle stands, I have). Hopefully the ball joints should be OK as they're brand new (plus about 500 miles) so shouldn't be seized or grotty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 You'll need to check your toe setting as well ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 It can be a bit of a pig reapplying the nyloc nut to the ball joint as the whole thing wants to turn. You can use a ratchet strap to pull everything together or first use a standard nut to pull everything into place, before taking it off and putting the nyloc one on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 The wear you describe is more likely to be a toe issue than camber. Camber doesn't really drive wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 As above, when you have the camber where you want it, then set your toe to parallel using string lines lined up on the rear rims Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I think I read somewhere that more recent top swivel joints have a hex hole on the end of the threaded stud which will take an Allen key to hold it whilst tightening and untightening. There's lots of archive stuff about removing the tapered joint, just don't use a splitter as you'll nadger the rubber boot. The socket, nut and bolt method works best for me although there are those who swear by the 'clout it with two big hammers' trick.Now would be a good time to raise the rack to correct bump steer if not already done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks all. Turns out all of my spanners are just too chunky to get in there anyway, so it's going to turn in to a visit to a professional for a proper setup and alignment just as soon as the Hawleys mobile truck has visited! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 The wear you describe is more likely to be a toe issue than camber. Camber doesn't really drive wear....and indeed, the front is toe-out by something like 2 degrees. Not so easy to see just looking at the wheels, given the taper of the car itself, but line some timber up to each wheel and it's blatant. Looks massive in fact, I was surprised it was "only" 2 degrees. I thought the car felt a bit less stable than previously, last week!Am I right in thinking I can adjust the toe by hand, having undone the locknuts on the track rod ends, without actually disconnecting everything?Thanks for the tip / pointer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 8, 2015 Member Share Posted June 8, 2015 Yes.But how do you know the timber was true?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Undo the locknuts and use the flats on the steering arms (might be under the gaiter) to adjust.Best way to measure is to string the car using fishing line; then you can measure each side's toe independently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 But how do you know the timber was true?By looking down each length with my MkI eyeball and noting how very little they curved in any direction.And confirming by laying each on my reasonably flat garage floor on each edge in turn and noting how they laid flush each time, rather than arching up in the middle or rocking like a see-saw.Certainly they're straight enough to point up a substantial toe-out, if possibly not quite so accurate as a laser marker. Or even a taught piece of string. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Thanks again Charles.Four new CR500s now fitted, so I feel some adjustment and a test run / tyre scrubbing-in session coming on this evening.Now, if only I were surrounded by some beautiful countryside, stuffed full of a plethora of nice pubs selling quality food. Oh no, wait... I just remembered where I live! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 8, 2015 Member Share Posted June 8, 2015 :-)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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