Smithy77 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I'm considering ditching my current cheap tintop run about - a 1997 E36 316i on 155K miles - as it is due two new tyres and some probable welding to the floor for its next MOT in Nov, so thought it wise to cash in now. Plus it has a minor ongoing running issue which I have not been able to resolve, so MPG isn't amazing, and being pre-2001 and over 1550cc it just falls into the higher tax band (a ludicrous £235/year!).I've been considering options and looking at pre-2001 <1.6L cars; something cheap, lowish miles and reliable. Two options spring to mind:1. Honda Civic 1.5 Vtec2. Something with a Rover K-series, just for the sake of shared knowledge and spares from my Caterham ownership.Just been to see a tidy low milage Rover 400 and it was good enough to want it, the only problem is it needs a new clutch - foot down in 2nd and the revs spin up as soon as they hit 3K rpm. I'm tempted to make a discounted offer to account for the required work to replace the clutch. Got a quote to replace at Mr Clutch of around £240 all in.Is it worth a punt to offer £300-350?Is it a DIY'able job for a competent DIYer, but who has never done a clutch before? I'm guessing it is easier than doing the job on the 7Any other cars worth looking at?All comments/thoughts/advice welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I think doing a clutch on a front wheel drive car would be a nasty job .... probably involving removing suspension and gearbox. A lot easier on a 7 ... by just removing the engine. I would personally leave it to someone that does it all day every day. £240 is cheap I reckon. One elderly owner from new .... slips and abuses the clutch something rotten ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 SM25T - thanks for the advice. Duly noted. You're probably right, past owner most likely elderly. I sold my Clio 172 at 136K miles after doing 100K and it had the original clutch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Clutch pedal = foot rest.When you get bored of the 1.4, you could build a monster engine for it and scare other road users. And then bung it in the Caterham and scare yourself. Normal looking Rover 400 with 200+bhp and TB'd snarl would make a great street sleeper.Well, you did say all comments/thoughts/advice welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stridey Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I used Mr Clutch (Highgate Branch) a few years ago to do my petrol T4 VW Van. They quoted cheap on what I knew was a pig of a job and they did a good job. Much as I like doing it myself, sometimes it's sensible to use a pro and get a guarantee, especially on an awkward job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Mankee - thanks, I will bear that in mind! I think I'll offer him a reduced price if he still has it for sale at the weekend.I've also just seen another local E36 on ebay, but its a 318i and only on 68K miles. Might make a cheeky bid after viewing it. It goes against my aim of getting a cheaper to run car, but to keep driving a low mile BMW, it's a price worth paying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Well I didn't buy either of those in the end. I went to see the 318 but I saw an invoice for £1500 dated Dec 2014 for repair of HGF with a crack found in the head and it having to go off for repair. Whilst looking under the bonnet I also found a thick layer of what looked like golden engine oil floating at the top of the expansion tank. No mayo under the oil cap though so was a little confused what exactly was wrong, but it was enough for me to walk away.In the end I ended up going for a 2002 MG ZS 1.8, 87K miles, good mechanical order, drives and pulls well, reasonable body work and the previous 2 owners (the guy I bought it off bought it from his next door neighbour, who in turn owned it since 2004) didn't look like the types to thrash it. Knocked him down from £650 and paid £490. The increase in insurance is offset (exactly) by the saving in road tax, so I'm hoping all in all it should be cheaper to run/maintain, whilst being a bit more fun to drive.One thing which was wrong with it, and this could be contentious given that it's a K-series, was that the coolant was filled with plain water and he mentioned he had to top it up occasionally. Well I got home and found a heater hose was split at a jubilee clip, which I have now fixed.Should I be concerned that it hasn't had proper 'coolant' in it? Could it have done any damage? It was £490 at the end of the day though so wouldn't be too upset... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 8, 2015 Member Share Posted June 8, 2015 Fill it with the right stuff with a bit of a flush. And then check it isn't losing it somewhere else as well.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 It could freeze or cause corrosion. Probably less of an issue in an aluminium engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 @Jonathan: By "the right stuff" ... do you mean Evans Waterless Coolant? PS: Only joking, the wet red stuff seems fine to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 8, 2015 Member Share Posted June 8, 2015 Aaaaaargh! I was deliberately underspecifying!:-)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy77 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Probably less of an issue in an aluminium engine. As I hoped. Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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