chrisb Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 HELP!! I Put this ad in the wanted section, but not much joy, so maybee its time to splosh the dosh and buy a new dry sump kit. Any-body got any suggestions, particularly with regards to cost and ease of fitting. (I can take it to bits easy enough.... ...) And suggestion of makes to look for and ones to avoid. Any help greatly appreciated Thanks Chris --> My little 7 is getting itchy feet and wants to go and play on some tracks however she has a crossflow engine, and is prone to a bit of oil surge Anybody out there who can help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 You will have to get a special right hand engine mount from Caterham anyway so you might want to ask them how much the whole lot costs. I bought most of my bits from Think Automotive, who also made up all the oil lines for me. The flexible oil lines have to be measured up very carefully and have to have the correct fittings (straight, 45 deg, 90 deg) or they just wont fit. 99,000 miles so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon K Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Chris If you look on Caterhams website they are doing the kit for £699 for a X-Flow. C7 KAV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 Chrisb, Talk to Roger King as there are a few things that could be improved on in the Caterham kit, specifically the hoses if I recall correctly. If you get a second hand kit beware that the scavenge part of the pump inlet diameter is the same as the diameter of the outlet from the sump - as the pumps have been made in different diameters and you cannot mix diameters apparently. Also their are pumps with a Rev counter drive outlet and those without - some consider those without are better in a Caterham as it is not required and is difficult to stop leaking if it starts. You might also try websites such as racecar.co.uk: http://www.racecar.co.uk/cgi/forums/YaBB.cgi The above could all be a load of tosh, and you should ask Roger how much he can do a kit for. Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 Also bear in mind that you will probably have to rotate your steering rack to clear the offending pipework! C7 PWT X-Flow all Steel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb Posted January 23, 2003 Author Share Posted January 23, 2003 Thanks for all the help so far. Looking at the postings, I'm not sure weather I'm capable of fitting the dry sump. How easy is it to rotate the steering rack etc... Cheers, Chris The sun is shining, the roads are dry, and I'm at work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 It is quite aesy really, it is getting it right so that it does not bang on any of the unions coming from the dry sump pump! You might find that you will end up changing some unions for straight, 45 ,90 untill you get it right, more time consuming than aggravation. C7 PWT X-Flow all Steel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 Hi, Suggest this is straight forward and a bit of planning before hand will save at of issues. Have a chat with PACE, really nice chaps as well as Roger who helpped with mine. First decision is where to put the tank. If you have live axle infront of passenger footwell may work - if not and passenger footwell can be shortened this is a good place for it. A tank that you can easily clean is a good idea too. Also, try and fine one with a boss for an oil temperature sender fitting - these are the same as the water temp and with a bit of electrical work and a switch, you can alternate between oil and water temp with the "water temp" guage - cheap and lightweight solution.... Tank will need a secure base, and also top fixing - typically top fixing is large jubille clip rivited to chassis tubes. Pipe runs are straight forward. Lower one (supply) runs along chassis in front of engine and needs care when you get near bottom pulley etc to ensure it is secure and will not get damaged. Top one (return) I ran along NS diagonal with heat proof foil cloth ( sure there is a tech name but it escapes me ) to minimise heat build up where it passes near exhaust - probably does not make any difference Second decision is where to site the remote filter. This could be ;- 1. Under nose 2. Above bellhousing 3. Where battery used to be ie under carbs in front of driver footwell. I selected 3 having moved battery to more accessible location and with a view to keep pipe runs short. This will pick up the other two ports on the 5 port pump - the final one will be a short distance of pipe linking sump with pump. When you paint new sump pan make sure you do not paint the solid pipe where the pump pipe will pick up as it will be difficult to get of later. Note; remote filter will allow pressure sender to be fitted which makes sense as opposed to having on the engine, but engine will need plug loctited in. BE VERY CAREFUL AND MAKE SURE YOU GET CONNECTIONS ROUND THE RIGHT WAY AS MANY OIL FILTERS HAVE A NON RETURN VALVE - IF IT IS CONNECTED THE WRONG WAY ROUND IT WILL BE AN INSTANT ENGINE REBUILD. I used a Halfords 202 ( from recollection filter ) which was the largest I could find to provide max filtration - not sure if this is a waste of time as many std ones are lot smaller Third Decison is whether to run an oil cooler. Mixed views on this ;- 1. Adds weight 2. Significantly increases number of joints and hose length therefore increases risk ! 3. Sensible safety precaution I fitted mine above the steering rack and also fitted thermostat - both are mocal and available from Think Automotive. Depending on decisions above, working pipe length and getting correct connections should be straight forward. Other points ;- 1. Rocker cover can be converted to one without cap. It will need a breather which can connect to the new tank - if it is in the passenger footwell location, this is a relatively short distance. 2. Dry sump tank will require breather catch tank . I made mine out of a washer bottle that fitted neatly next to the dry sump tank on the footwell bulkhead next to g'box. Inspired by Mr.Thompson's SLR I have a Mocal polished one now ! As Peter says it is not complicated and providing you have worked out where kit will go should be straight forward. Hope this helps, but if you would like to talk it through let me know 07714 835983 Anthony VX the real way sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Chris Burtons brochure dropped through the letter box on Saturday Given them a call for a brochure as this topic is covered off ( along with all prices etc ) Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb Posted January 27, 2003 Author Share Posted January 27, 2003 Can you enlighten me as to who Burton's are? Ho hum, wait for the clothing jokes........ Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Burton Power - a mostly ford tunning parts supplier... Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Chris, e-mail me you address and I will pop it in the post Best regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 my advice is to save up, £699 for the full kit is reasonable as i went the second hand route,but had to by the special engine mounting bracket, oil tank and hoses new, the extra time it took to gather the sump pan, pump and remote oil filter bracket was not worth the saving. the advantage in buying new from caterham is the hoses should be all the right length everything is new and a known quantity, its the way to go if you get the full kit for £699 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Wibbler Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 A double scavenge front mounted pump as on FF:s is the way to go. You´ll have to tooth belt drive the water pump and alternator to get it to fit but otherwise its straight forward. Have a look at www.paceproducts.co.uk TPW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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