New build. Brake union question

[LawrenceR]

http://lawrencescaterham.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/brake-lines.html

Can anyone tell me if this looks right?

Thanks 

[DJ.]

It looks OK to me. I think I added another very thin washer under the lock one to protect the skin. The important thing is to make sure you are tightening the brake pipe against the metal face and the nut isn't running out of thread.

 

Duncan

[1360rallye]

Yep - that's the same set up I used for my supersport build.

 

Andrew

[6speedmanual]

DJ, if you're going to use a flat washer under the star washer you might as well leave the star washer out. The whole point of a star washer is to mechanically grip the surfaces. Whether a star washer is actually required there is a different debate.

[LawrenceR]

Thanks Guys

I shall torque them up as shown 

 

 

[John Vine]

It looks like you've found an error in the Assembly Guide here.  Fig 35 on p69 refers to 2. Plain washer.   I think that should read 2. 3/8" nut.

In your set-up, you have a plain washer between the ali skin and the shakeproof.  I would suggest you remove that and just have the shakeproof.  Note that there should be a plain washer on the outside of the skin.

JV

[LawrenceR]

It's not the first error and I am sure it won't be the last I find.

I suggested to Derek that they put a version on line that kit builders can modify when they find errors or better methods. These are then reviewed and rectified or rejected by the factory before the actual version is updated.

Derek did tell me they are moving to a drawing based instruction manual at some point. The sooner the better

[John Vine]

It's not the first error and I am sure it won't be the last I find.

When I built my current 7 (in 2008), I offered CC a list of all the errors and ambiguities I encountered in the AG.  They accepted gratefully, and even incorporated (most of) my comments in later versions. 

 

I suggested to Derek that they put a version on line that kit builders can modify when they find errors or better methods. These are then reviewed and rectified or rejected by the factory before the actual version is updated.

That's an excellent suggestion.  Let's hope it bears fruit.

JV

[pugwash]

Duncan's point above is a good one.  When I build my Supersport I did my best to follow the manual but iirc I ran out of thread connecting up the three way connector at the rear. Fortunately I noticed and did call the factory for advice.  Unfortunately I cannot recall what they said or what I did!

[Garry7]

The issue was plain washers where they shouldn't be I seem to remember, been looking for my annotated notes from my build, no luck just yet. Definitely too many washers at the front too in my manual.  Oh and they sent me S3 front brake lines for an SV. 

[Domus]

I got SV engine mounts for an S3 

[NedK]

When it comes to torquing up the brake unions, do people use crows feet attached to their torque wrench? It's the first time I've tried to use them, and it doesn't feel as certain as a proper socket.

Also, I'm not sure how the torque can be exactly accurate, unless the crows foot is exactly at 90deg to the wrench shaft. 

Advice most welcome, chaps!

Ned

[pugwash]

I think I just tightened mine up by hand with a spanner!  

[DJ.]

I didn't use a torque wrench, just the correct spanner and sensible pressure. I did use a crow's foot to torque the upper damper bolt. In theory 90degrees to the torque wrench should keep the effective length much such the same.