LawrenceR Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 http://lawrencescaterham.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/brake-lines.htmlCan anyone tell me if this looks right?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 It looks OK to me. I think I added another very thin washer under the lock one to protect the skin. The important thing is to make sure you are tightening the brake pipe against the metal face and the nut isn't running out of thread. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1360rallye Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Yep - that's the same set up I used for my supersport build. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 DJ, if you're going to use a flat washer under the star washer you might as well leave the star washer out. The whole point of a star washer is to mechanically grip the surfaces. Whether a star washer is actually required there is a different debate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceR Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Thanks GuysI shall torque them up as shown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 It looks like you've found an error in the Assembly Guide here. Fig 35 on p69 refers to 2. Plain washer. I think that should read 2. 3/8" nut.In your set-up, you have a plain washer between the ali skin and the shakeproof. I would suggest you remove that and just have the shakeproof. Note that there should be a plain washer on the outside of the skin.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceR Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 It's not the first error and I am sure it won't be the last I find.I suggested to Derek that they put a version on line that kit builders can modify when they find errors or better methods. These are then reviewed and rectified or rejected by the factory before the actual version is updated.Derek did tell me they are moving to a drawing based instruction manual at some point. The sooner the better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 It's not the first error and I am sure it won't be the last I find.When I built my current 7 (in 2008), I offered CC a list of all the errors and ambiguities I encountered in the AG. They accepted gratefully, and even incorporated (most of) my comments in later versions. I suggested to Derek that they put a version on line that kit builders can modify when they find errors or better methods. These are then reviewed and rectified or rejected by the factory before the actual version is updated.That's an excellent suggestion. Let's hope it bears fruit.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Duncan's point above is a good one. When I build my Supersport I did my best to follow the manual but iirc I ran out of thread connecting up the three way connector at the rear. Fortunately I noticed and did call the factory for advice. Unfortunately I cannot recall what they said or what I did! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted April 4, 2015 Leadership Team Share Posted April 4, 2015 The issue was plain washers where they shouldn't be I seem to remember, been looking for my annotated notes from my build, no luck just yet. Definitely too many washers at the front too in my manual. Oh and they sent me S3 front brake lines for an SV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I got SV engine mounts for an S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NedK Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 When it comes to torquing up the brake unions, do people use crows feet attached to their torque wrench? It's the first time I've tried to use them, and it doesn't feel as certain as a proper socket.Also, I'm not sure how the torque can be exactly accurate, unless the crows foot is exactly at 90deg to the wrench shaft. Advice most welcome, chaps!Ned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I think I just tightened mine up by hand with a spanner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I didn't use a torque wrench, just the correct spanner and sensible pressure. I did use a crow's foot to torque the upper damper bolt. In theory 90degrees to the torque wrench should keep the effective length much such the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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