Dave Rothwell Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Hi all, Bought my car last year ( SL 1.6 ) Avon ACB10's all round. Looks like the rears will soon be ready to replace so i would like to ask your expert opinion as to whether to stick with the ACB10's or not. The car is only used on the road and mainly in the dry as I've only the aeroscreen and no weather gear *cool*. I reckon in the wet the Avons could be a lot of fun ! They also must wear fairly quickly as the car has only done 5000 and I think the rears may be set two To be honest I would like to stick with the Avons as I understand they were fitted as original spec - also they are the business in the dry. If anyone can recommend a better alternative I would appreciate it. Also does anyone know a good supplier ( ie right price ) for the Avons. Many thanks, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I would stay with the ACBs if you only go out in the dry. A032Rs offer a touch more grip in the damp but not much in the wet - after that you will have to go for a fully grooved tyre. See X777CAT here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Have run ACB10s on my Superlight for five years and wouldn't use anything else. Make sure you don't pump them up above 17psi cold and they will be fine and progressive in the wet, even if the limit of grip is low. ACB10s are available in a number of compounds. The A33 compound supplied by Caterham is the hardest and it is typical to see 3500 miles per set if you rotate the tyres. It is probably a better bet not to rotate and to expect to need rears every 2500miles and fronts after 4000. Get them direct from Avon Racing and they mail them out to arrive the next day. Buy in sets of four and they charge 11 quid for delivery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Coming in from a poor bloke position here: Does the performance difference of an ACB10 over an 032 really justify the cost? 032's can be bought for £45 a corner whilst ACB10's are, what, £110-120 each? If we say 032's last 3k miles all round and you rotate the ACB's for about the same life, that is £180 vs £460, both x VAT and fitting I guess... that is quite a bit different. I have some 032's which came with some wheels, and will be blown away by them after running some A510's for 3 years.... Just curious Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 nah acb10's are more like 85 quid for 6" (I think witht he vat) from avon direct as for value for money probably not but for grin factor then yes plus also you can make 32's last just as little if you try rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Arr £85 - I stand corrected Any idea on the weight saving? Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 plenty I belive .. not sure of the exact figures but I think for 185 60 13 (so equiv 6 21 13 avon) it is about 1.5kg per corner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Rothwell Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 Cheers - I will stick with the ACB10's. I can't rotate all the wheels as the front and rears are different sizes. The wheels are SLR split rims. I am the first to admit that the most I know about tyres is that they ought to be round not square so perhaps you can help me out some more. The fronts are 19550 -13's 78v and the rears 24545-13 89v. Whats the V designation all about ? How do I know which of the 15 compounds I've got from the tyre markings. I presume you have to order specifying nearside or offside cause of the rotation or do you have to buy in pairs. Thanks for helping out in the tyre novice class ! Dave. Edited by - Dave Rothwell on 20 Jan 2003 20:29:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 32Rs have a much cooler tread pattern Also they are not as bad for tramlining (apparently). All the other points have been covered i think. HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Rothwell Posted January 21, 2003 Author Share Posted January 21, 2003 Sill hoping someone can help me out with the V markings etc Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Dave, The V rating is the "load" rating for the tyre. Not important to you because you get what you get and all are appropriate for the Seven. The left and right tyres are identical. In addition to the sidewall markings, you will find (on one side of the tyre only) a four or five digit product code that looks like an afterthought. This product code uniquely identifies the compound and size of the tyre and you should quote it to Avon. The list of roadgoing ACB10 variants is: Generally ACB10's are available in A33 (Hard compound sold by Caterham) through A30 to A24 compound. The definitions from Avon are: A33 Stronger for very hard saloon use A31 Durable compound mostly used on saloon cars A30 Generates higher temperature and grip than A31 A24 Used in medium single seater/soft saloon applications You cannot get ACB10's in A40 as they fail the Load Rating test because they disintegrate! Here's a list of compounds and how to identify them on ACB10's. These figures are current and the Spec is a 4 digit number on the tyre carcass. Code Size Compound Load rating 6356 6.0/21.0-13 A30 76V 6357 7.0/22.0-13 A31 85V 6363 6.0/21.0-13 A24 76V 6364 7.0/22.0-13 A24 85V 6509 7.0/22.0-15 A31 78V 6510 7.0/22.0-15 A24 78V 6587 8.0/22.0-15 A31 80V 6894 7.0/21.0-13 A24 78V 6895 8.0/22.0-13 A24 89V 6898 7.0/21.0-13 A30 78V 6899 8.0/22.0-13 A31 89V 7319 7.0/22.0-13 A31 7404 6.0/21.0-13 A33 76V 7501 7.0/22.0-13 A33 85V 7713 7.0/22.0-15 A33 78V 8813 7.0/22.0-15 A33 78V 8843 7.0/21.0-13 A30 8844 8.0/22.0-13 A31 9064 6.0/21.0-13 A33 76V 9065 7.0/21.0-13 A33 78V 10014 8.0/22.0-15 A24 80V 10035 7.0/21.0-13 A33 78V 10036 8.0/22.0-13 A33 89V 10090 7.0/22.0-15 A33 78V 11005 7.0/22.0-15 4S60 78V 11099 6.0/21.0-13 A29 76V 11110 6.0/21.0-13 A29 76V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Rothwell Posted January 22, 2003 Author Share Posted January 22, 2003 Peter, Thanks very much for the coprehensive information *thumbup* Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwyatt Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 245's on the rear? Blimey! I've never run ACB10's but have run quite a few other tyres, and personally settle for a set of Bridgestone RE720's for the road, on a taller profile than my race/track day tyres (Avon CR500's and Avon race wets). They are far more comfortable on the road and make the car much nicer to drive, as well as supplying enough grip to be fun, but let's face it, on the road we very rarely (if we want to live!) corner at maximal rates for long corners repeatedly like on track. I've heard from others that ACB10's are very harsh for road use, and personally I wouldn't want anything quite that expensive, specialised and poor in the wet as my everyday tyre! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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