mortenh Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Still serching for a K-series 1,8 ready to install in my 1,4 SuperSport, so if anyone have one in good condition, please let me know... Otherwise: I allready have a 1,8 VVC sitting in my garage - but I don't know the condition. Therefore - would it make sence to by e.g. this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-MG-1-8-VVTI-160BHP-ENGINE-/121560399091?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ACaterham&hash=item1c4d907cf3 on exchange basis?Such a reconditioned one seems like value for the money... And should be the best start for an upgrade, right? The thought was the to upgrade this rebuilt engine with a DVA K06 kit... ?? And if so, what about - the electrical system to connect the new engine? - dry sump - where can I buy a complete system?- or can I just move my anti caviation system from my 1,4?? What can I re-use and what will I need to source - and from where??? I was especially concerned about the wiring loom - Is it possible to get one plug n play to suit a 1,8 VVC in a Caterham - and the Emerald ecu from the DVA K06 kit in the other end? Thanks for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I swapped 1.6 to 1.8vvc and the fit itself was straightforward. I retained the Apollo tank, but you'll need a new Ecu and immobiliser jobby. The wiring itself wasn't too difficult but I managed to recruit the help of a capable local member to assist. It took us a morning to do it and it started first time. You'll need new flywheel bolts and a different engine mount on one side, sorry can't remember which side, to drop the engine as its taller than the one coming out. Good luck they are good engines and the upgrade in torque and speed is very handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 You'll also quite probably need a spacer for the bearing at the end of the crank where the gearbox shaft fits and a new bearing. Rimmer bros are good for the standard Rover parts, otherwise Caterham parts can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortenh Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Thanks a lot Peter. I sounds like a pretty straight forward job... However I am (as mentioned in the top line) quite a novice when it comes to the technical stuff, so I was thinking about letting a local race-shop so at least some of the job.Which Ecu did you go for? Andcan I adapt the wiring loom from the 1.4? On the VVC engine I have it the garage it looks different, as it is from a MGFThansk again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 In a roundabout way, my car has gone from an EU2 1.4 Supersport from the factory to a modified 1.8 VVC 160 engine, but with no more VVC and some other go-faster bits.Full dry sump kits are still available from Caterham, even though they are no longer listed on the website. I enquired not so long ago.Will you be using the larger metal intake manifold as per standard VVC setup? If so, you will need a different right-hand engine mount bracket, which lowers the engine a little so that the bonnet will fit without clouting the inlet.If you want to keep the VVC mechs, you will need to add some wiring between them, the various additional sensors and the ECU so that it is all happy. I junked the VVC for the simplicity of a one-piece inlet cam and fewer sensors and wiring. If you are going for an Emerald, I'd try and do it straight away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Love my VVC engine. Lots of torque across the rev range and free revving. Great economy too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortenh Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Thanks Mankee... I was planning to go for ITB's and an Emerald - so it should fit, right? I also did see a post about getting rid of the VVC - to simplify things. Will I then be able to use my 1.4 wiring loom?And will I still have to find another engine mount? Would like a filter trough the bonnet anyway..My dream would be to go for the K06 kit from DVA: "K06 - 185BHP kit for VVC engines, gives 185BHP+ Gives excellent power increase across the range and much improved drivability and throttle response comprising Jenvey DTH throttle bodies with composite trumpets and fuel rail mountings, Pair Piper fast road cams for VVC engine, VVC blanking kit, Emerald K6 ECU with suitable map and all gaskets and oil seals necessary to fit. This kit replaces the VVC mechanisms and cams with solid camshafts and blanks off the VVC mechanisms"Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 The VVC head is 25mm taller than the standard 1.8 head .... so you will need the appropriate engine mount for the VVC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 28, 2015 Area Representative Share Posted February 28, 2015 25m taller!!!!!!!!!miles or metres? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Thanks auto-correct. 25mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I have Jenvey 42mm DTH bodies and an Emerald on a VVC 160 base engine, so your plan will work. I also use a standard engine mount, as there is no longer a need to lower the driver's side of the engine so that the inlet clears the bonnet. My car also retains the standard, as far as I know, 1.4 Supersport engine loom, although I've hacked it about a bit now.DVA's K06 is pretty much my current engine spec, except for some headwork, cam choice and a few other minor bits. It is ballistic, but there is always the need for more go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 If you stick with the full VVC, you will need to do some cutting and soldering on the wiring, my mate Pete knew what he was doing, and understood it all, I didn't, but in the ned it all made sense, it was about splicing in the VVC engine loom to the rest of the wiring loom. Ditch the VVC bit and some sensors come off, which probably means even more hacking, but Mankee can probably best advise on that bit as he's done it.My engine came out of an MG ZR160, complete with engine loom but the ECU was wrecked in the crash that killed the car.I got hold of a VVC ECU from another local member, and got it checked for the correct map, and had the immobiliser matched to it, by a mate of a mate of a mate. I can let you have his contact details off line.One other thing, SM25T says about the plenum, I had the aluminium one, as oppoesd to plastic, and I had to get it machined to fit under the bonnet, even with the correct engine mounting, lets say it's still a snug fit.Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Mine is the ali one and it *just* fits under the bonnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 SV chassis has slightly different engine mount brackets and mounting angle doesn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 You could get a Cummins diesel engine under an Sv. Loads of room. A bit more of a snug fit for us slight and slender series 3 owners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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