Monte Busa Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I know I've read somewhere, but can't find out where now, and unfortunately I don't have my 1.4 K block anymore as a reference - but I will need to grind the block webbing for clearance for the starter to fit my 1.8 K block correct? Are there any pictures floating about showing what the typical modificatons look like?Aric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 The amount you need to grind off depends on what starter you have. Here's what mine looked like:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sbwbgkbwtktsktrxststsqkkrss,vi/wstbrdkqbxrrrrdwtrs/8/42688/10523039/DSCF2006-vi.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Busa Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Thanks Mankee.Are there any starters out there that you (or anyone else) know(s) of that require little if any block hacking? I'm specifically concerned about the engine serial number area - especially in the states, grinding off the number for any reason is a no-no...Aric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 You could try a Powerlite RAC430. I was going to get one of these to match my new Powerlite alternator, but settled for a WOSP item which is lighter and a little cheaper. A friend contacted Powervamp/Powerlite about this starter and got the following reponse: The RAC430 is designed for the K series fitted with a Caterham Bell housing and Caterham spacer plate. The starter should be fitted requiring NO grinding top the engine or starter. I do not however know if there are any differences to the later MG type K Series Block. The starter was designed and developed for the K Series fitted to the Caterham.Now, I don't know if that means that if you are fitting the starter to a Caterham engine that's already been modified then no additional grinding is required or if you still need to grind away a standard K-series block to fit it. I suspect that grinding is stil required.It's this one:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151224526907 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Looking at the starter on eBay I would be concerned about clearance with the primaries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Another reason why I went with the WOSP. The solenoid is much smaller and the end plate is drilled so that you can spin the starter round if needs be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Busa Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Is this the WOSP?http://www.amp-starters.co.uk/product.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=599,1575&P_ID=35793&CAT_ID=1575&numRecordPosition=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Yep, that's the one. I got mine from Auto Electric Supplies in the UK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Here's and example of a factory supplied engine which had the magnetron starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Busa Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Thansk for the picture Titanium7 - I was reaching the same conclusion as what's suggested by what you're showing, namely that the Magneton starter has a bit more clearance than the in-line axial version. Do you happen to know if the Magneton has any problems clearing 4-1 primaries?Aric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Busa Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Well I finally got the starter fited, after a disturbing amount of grinding and finishing of a brand new block. I found I had to go almost as far as what is shown on Titanium7s picture - maybe 1/4 or so less on the front most webbing, as I sprung for a WOSP starter, and it's body is about 1/2" smaller diamter than teh standard starter that was on the 1.4 K engine.That was the last accessory to fit after having fit the oil filter head and filter, along with the alternator this past weekend, so with any luck the engine will be back in the car in a few days time and I can finish on the final wiring installation and modifications!Aric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I'm really pleased with my WOSP starter motor. Spins the engine round very quickly. I don't know if it would cure a car with the K-click, as mine didn't have the click issue, just an old and lethargic starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Busa Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Thanks for the tip on the WOSP starter Mankee. The older starter was getting a little tired sounding on my 1.4SS lump, so an upgrade was in order. Did you rotate the solenoid, or keep it like it comes from the box (upwards adjacent to the block)? Here's mine as it's installed now:Aric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I didn't move the solenoid in the end as I thought I'd try it straight out of the box. Absolutely no problems related to the starter at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Busa Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 I ended up rotating mine so the solenoid faces downward - it was within 1/16" of the #4 cylinder header tube (4 into 1 race)...good to change it now before problems with heat start. Now it's plenty safe and out of the' way, and I can access the wiring terminals a lot easier now too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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