StuB Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Suggestions needed, have got it all apart or at least loose, except for one of the upper wishbones where it goes through the wing stay onto the wheel hub (please excuse the lack of technical terms). Anyway, I've removed the nut and it's stuck fast, I can't get it to budge. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Mackenzie Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Hi StuI've always needed a balljoint splitter for that one.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Use a nut and bolt that just fits between the end of this taper pin and the surface of the upright under it. Put it in place, then simply undo nut with two spanners until it pushes pin out of taper. Simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 14, 2015 Member Share Posted February 14, 2015 Is there a photo of this trick anywhere?ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 I've used the trick SM25T mentions and it works very well.However, holding the bolt steady while using the spanner is a bit of a nightmare so I made a tool to make it easier:http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r538/underhay/003_skcc/ball_joint_tool.jpgThe flat end with the tube goes under the ball joint thread, and the curved end goes on top of the upright underneath. I hope this helps Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark w Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I've done a similar thing but with no access to welding just locked two nuts together on one end of a threaded rod cut to length . These go at the bottom and are held steady with a ring spanner , turn the nut at the other end and the taper pops out . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 16, 2015 Member Share Posted February 16, 2015 Thanks x2.More photos of this trick in action, please.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 long brass drift placed on the side of the upright,one sharp blow from a 2lb knocking stick,............and there you go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 The threaded end of mine had a hole for a ~6mm allen key which made undoing/ tightening much easier. I used a ring spanner and an allen key to slowly un do it, half a turn at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 don't use a fork type splitter or you risk damaging the seal. Probably a bit late for you but splitting this joint is best done first whilst it's all still on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Stone Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Give the upright a sharp bash with a hammer at the point where ball joint is. It works for me & Ed on Wheeler Dealers uses this method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Don't like the idea of bashing my suspension with a big hammer. Much prefer the gentle approach with the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Stone Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I know what you mean. But it is a method that mechanics use and works. Even John at Redline told me that way of doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks all for the suggestions, funny thing is that managed to remove everything on the drivers side without too much hassle. Passenger side is proving to be a real pig. Tried a ball joint splitter with no luck (except to muller the rubber cap), managed to remove to wing stay then a few sharp taps to the underside of the bolt, with the nut on, to reduce the chance of damaging the thread and it popped out. Was also given a tip of using an SDS drill on hammer setting in the same way and that would have been my next step. Now just struggling with the nut on the bottom of the hub, the one through the spherical bearing, again only an issue on the pass side! Have a glamorous assistant coming around to help tomorrow night so I'm hoping that I should be able to take a trip to Kelcoat later in the week with my bits. Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Nearside gets all the water and crap from the gutter side of the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 As the revised title, have just spent a few hours trying to get the suspension bushes removed - thanks to Colin Heseltine for his help.Unfortunatley the clip that holds in the spherical bearing has rusted in place. Can't get anything in to prise out the clip. Currently have it soaking in PlusGas but any other suggestions appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Is it a conventional Circlip or that horrible wire spiral thing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 I think it's the horrible one as I seem to remember the clip on a previous car having two holes near the join. I can't even see where this one joins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Just get hold of it with long nose pliers or a screwdriver and prise / pull it out. It is scrap anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 If you get underneath with a light you will see there is a little recess in the edge of the socket that the bearing and spring clip goes into, you just need to poke a tiny screwdriver into here and you should be able to lever the spring clip out. On mine this was the easy bit, getting the bearing out was a bit of a faff though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Mackenzie Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Tiny jewllers screwdriver for me, the end of the spring clip is pointed to if you can find it you can lever this out then is should unwind with a pair of plyers.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Cheers all, got them out eventually, this is turning into a much longer job than originally anticipated I called Caterham Midlands yesterday to see if they had any tips. The answer was that they find it a problem removing them too. They advised that it may be easier and cheaper (by the time I've factored in the cost of new powder coating) just to buy a new set of lower wishbones. I was then given a price of £170 each! Now I know that my man maths is bad but WTF! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 £170 each !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 I sh1t you not!http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=793 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 That says £234 each !. Wide track type though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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