LawrenceR Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Does anyone have experience of this for running in a Duratec.http://www.aaoil.co.uk/products/engine-builder/driven-mineral-breakin-oil-5w-30/millers do a 10w40 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-oil.aspxbut the recommended oil for duratec is 5w30 any thoughts welcome thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat the Plumber Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 When my eventually gets started up i will be using the Millers 10w40 running in oil.After the running in, I will be using 5w30 as recommended by Ford. 5w40 when on track though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Personally I would always use the grade Ford recommend for the engine.I used semi-synthetic for the first year (with a change at 1000 miles), then changed to fully synthetic.Honda use semi-synthetic oil in their Type R engines and don't swap to fully synthetic until 20,000.My engine doesn't use oil in road use.Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Is this a stick new engine form CC or a new build tweek engine?If the latter does it have a decent map?If you have warranty you may have guidance from your engine supplier,If not all my engine get millers or mineral oil,Warmed up then on a quiet staght road 2nd gear and full beans from 3k to the limiter, lift and coast back to 3k then repaeat - do the at least a dozen times.Then run using liberal mix of all speeds and loads,DO NOT potle aound under 4k aka Miss Daisy - you do nothing other than polish the bores,Change oil after 300 miles to full syth and use every horse in your stable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Last upgrade I used Millers classic running in oil and gave the car a full thrashing around the Rev range but below 5k RPM and eventually achieved an impressive torque figure using the advice from this website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NedK Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Interesting perspective on running in 'hard'. For my last Ducati, I was advised a somewhat similar idea: get to the top of a long drag with a warm engine, then repeatedly coast down in a high gear, with the throttle at zero. His explanation was that the rings would be 'sucked' outwards onto the cylinder walls, and wear evenly. A more moderate approach to Mototuneusa, but the same idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Costing on zero throttle will only cool the rings and allow debris to clear after a full power blast, the rings are pushed onto the cylinder wall under combustion pressure not sucked.Possible you misunderstood or it was translated badly if it was in the handbook? I suspect it was meant to be power up the hill hard then coast down and repeat, this would seem more logical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NedK Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Could be. Your description makes sense. The strong pull/engine braking feels a bit like the engine is being sucked - just my imagination though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceR Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Is this a stick new engine form CC or a new build tweek engine? If the latter does it have a decent map?Box fresh with the correct caterham map. I am trying to decide whether to run it in on rollers with break in oil or wait until after the PBC and IVA and do it a little later than ideal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 It needs to be done ASAP after the first start up, if you can get to a private road a few blasts in 2nd gear will do the trick, leaving it sat around idling or running light will not help at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Presumably after the engine has got up to temperature? Or are you suggesting this needs to be done from cold!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Not cold, as my OP warmed up (preferably driving) first then bedded in, but dont leave it sat idling for ages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceR Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 I understand that the first 20 mins warm up should be 2-2.5k at no or low load to bed the cams in, check for leaks and check the fan kicks in. Then on to the bedding in process for the rings and bores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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