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K series will not idle and cuts out


MaxB

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Hi took my Supersport for spin today after many weeks in the garage.

Engine (1.4 K series) cuts out on idle, even when at running temp. Power OK and not missing. Was fine last time I started it up. Any ideas please?

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When you switch off, do you hear the usual strange electical chatter from the IACV?

Worth doing a TPS reset - I know in the EU3 K-Series this is ignition on (but don't start), throttle smoothly to full then back to closed 5 times, ignition off, wait a few seconds - but I think yours could be EU2 and I think the procedure is different - maybe somebody could advise?

If you are hearing the right noises and the TPS reset doesn't fix it, I'd be thinking of taking th IACV off for a careful clean, and around the inside of the throttle body too where the butterfly valve seats.

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If your engine is 1400 EU2 the idle is set by a stepper motor moving the throttle spindle, controlled by the ECU. There will not be an IACV. Try resetting the ECU as described above. Chech the connectors to the stepper motor (5wire multiplug) and TPS (3 wire multiplug) at the throttle body. If it is a supersport forward facing throttle body, the stepper motor wiring is an extension of the original Rover loom and the extension multiplug/wiring is cable tied to the RHS engine compartment chassis diagonal. This multiplug can come loose/disconnected. 

Edit....also on the EU2 supersport, if the RHS engine mount is broken/sagged, the engine only needs to drop a few mm and the stepper motor housing and multiplug on the TB gets mashed on the chassis.

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Check the battery voltage as Stepper motors are very voltage sensitive

A fully charged battery should give a reading of 12.7 v (at rest for 1 hour after charging) 

A reading of 12v means the battery is 50% discharged

Make sure that the battery is properly charged and that it is holding a charge. Check the voltage with the engine running This should be a tad over 14v

It took me ages to track down a similar fault on a 1.4ss and fitting a new battery finally cured the problem.

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Fully charged at rest 12.73v

Running at tickover 14.4v

Never measured it during cranking

Get the battery tested Not a drop test as this can damage a modern battery but a proper test. Most garage testers will give a paper readout and tell you the condition when put under load. This is an excellent one but a tad too expensive for just occasional use. A good garage equiped with modern equipment should have one and charge you only a few quid for a proper report,

http://www.ringautomotive.co.uk/uk/products/Workshop+Tools/Battery+Maintenance+Tools/Battery+Testers/RBA650

 

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Hi thanks again for your really helpful advice. Update and further advice gratefully received.

Well, battery OK as renewed a few months back. Not tested it though, but cranks readily and healthily

Getting all the usual chatter from the TB at ignition etc. Did the reset/recalibration procedure. 5 throttle openings triggers the recalibration routine. But no change. BTW, Englishmaninwales is correct, can't see an IAVC.
I wonder if it's the TPS? I notice that on cold I don't get the problem so much (high idle), but at running temp, happens without fail. Though if I gently ease back the throttle, it stabilises at 1000 revs, but has a tendency to 'hunt' somewhat.( I found this  http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Throttle_Position_Sensor ).

It doesn't look an expensive item. Any idea where I can get a replacment? It has JZX 2963 printed on it and an aluminium tag with ' S09 MHB101200' punched on it.

Learning lots about EMS and throttle control!

Happy New Year!

Max

 

 

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Maybe your TPS / connection is the problem. I ve had an intemittent 'hunting' at idle due to dirty contacts on the TPS multiplug. Try wiggling the multiplug whilst running to see if there is a change and try electrical contact cleaning spray. The female connectors can be removed from the multiplug body to aid cleaning by using a very fine flatblade screwdriver (depress the tang on the connector and a simultaneous gentle pull to remove). Also clean the male connectors in the TPS.

If not dirty contacts I have a functioning spare early TPS (EU1 not EU2 according to Oily - see above) I can send you to trial if you wish - it is different from the later TPS.

Malcolm

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  • 3 months later...

Epilogue-- it turned out to be an oily residue in the throttle body blocking air flow when the throttle was closed on idle. Not uncommon.

Note to self--remember the basics! D'oh!

Thanks all.

 

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