TomB Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I've managed to get all my narrow track suspension off, so the upgrade has started well!I would like to get my uprights coated a nice zinc, metallic yellow colour as another local 7 has, so it looks a bit like this:/sites/default/files/images/users/10463/large_image_2.jpgTo do this I need to strip the upright assembly down into upright casting and steering arm, and remove the stub axle. I'm not sure how these come apart and what torque settling is required to put them back together. Also, something has just occurred to me - is getting the upright coated a good idea in terms of strength/ safety? I gather chroming parts weakens them, so maybe I should think again?The other query is on lower wishbone set up with respect to washer positioning. My narrow track set up has 4 washers behind each wishbone leg, to the effect that the wishbone is pushed forward 4 washers worth. So with widetrack, do I keep this washer set up, or have to change it? I gather this is 'castor', so what effect does the washer placement have? My car was an ex race car and I've not had the front suspension apart before, so could road behaviour be improved by reducing the castor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted December 22, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted December 22, 2014 TomNo problem with plating the uprights - that's how they leave the factory. Speak to Jonathan - he'll tell you where his were done. Taking them apart is straight forward - just as you would expect. Stub axle is a taper fit in upright so may need a tap with a hammer. Don't plate the stub axle! Putting together is also straight forward - just do the nuts FT. Make sure you don't forget the spring washers and use new nylocks.It's normal with narrow track to have 2 washers either side of the rear wishbone bush and 2 washers between the front bush and the chassis leg. With wide track it is normal to have no washers between front bush and chassis leg and 4 washers in front of the rear bush i.e. Between the chassis leg and rear bush. In other words the wishbone is further back with wide track.Castor is what brings the steering back to centre after a turn and keeps steering straight when travelling in a straight line. The further forward your bottom wishbone, the more castor you will have. Too little castor will make the car a bit nervous and steering light. Too much castor will make steering heavy.If you need a lift setting it up, let me know. BKG have tracking equipment and camber gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavic82 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Can't remember the figures off hand but the assembly torques are all in the online build manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted December 22, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted December 22, 2014 Can't remember the figures off hand but the assembly torques are all in the online build manual"Uprights and steering arm come ready assembled. Probably has setting for stub axle bolt as it is removed when wing stay fitted but don't think it has a setting for steering arm bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Paul is right, as the upright is all assembled, there is no torque figure given the manual. I saw 65lbs on a triumph Spitfire site, which counts as FT for a small-ish nut. Paul - please can you text me Jonathans number. He got them coated at Aerotech in Bolton, but I dont know what finish he selected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 My spreadsheet of torque settings (mostly from my manual) has the following:FRONT UPRIGHTS Application; Bolt Size; Torque Setting Steering arm to upright; 7/16" UNF x 1 7/8"; 22 - 27 lb/ft Stub axle; 1/2" Nyloc; 60 - 65 lb/ft Brake disc to hub; 3/8" UNF x 1 1/2"; 22 - 27 lb/ft Caliper to bracket bolts; M10; 50 lf/ft Caliper bracket to upright bolts; 7/16" UNF x 1 1/4"; 40 - 45 lb/ft http://www.our-nest.co.uk/Caterham/Files/Torque_settings.xls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colindavies56 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 don't forget you'll need longer brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 And the spacers and special lower nuts for the upright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Thanks guys, I've got the hoses, need to order a few small things after Christmas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Which way does the stub axle come out?! I've been hammering on the wing stay side, and then it occurred to me that I think the stub axle goes in from the outside. I think I'm going to have a job on my hands to get it all apart now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Unless the stub axles have only reacently been inserted, they could well use more that a 'tap' to get them out. Mine needed a hydraulic press and when they went, by God they went!! They came out like a bullet and with a hell of a crack.They exit outward, ie the short bit goes through the hole in the upright, ie you are hitting the correct side. I'm betting you will need to have these pressed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted December 23, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted December 23, 2014 TomYou're on the right side. You just need a bigger hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 Well the car is a 1996 car and I reckon its the first time the front end has been apart... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 Tried again tonight and bingo, two stub axles came out. Not just a single tap, but maybe a few hard blows. I attached the nut and screwed it so that it was flush with the stub axle, so that I was also striking the stub axle and not just the nut. Just need to clean up the uprights for coating after the Christmas break ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I picked my uprights up today from the coaters, and Ive reassembled them this evening. They look lovely, like new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark w Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 That's a really smart work bench you have in your garage . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Ikea's finest (cheapest) units! I assure you its not a granite worktop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Tom , very bling the uprights that is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Its all gone back together very easily. The joy of working with clean parts and new nuts and bolts! Quick query - if I replicate the number of turns or measure the exposed thread on the upper wishbone drop links so that the new is the same set up as that on the narrow track to wishbones, will I have more or less the same camber as before I stripped the narrow track off? Or are the widetrack wishbones proportionally different to the narrow track such this wont be appropriate? My plan for putting them back is 4 washers behind the lower wishbone rear legs to set the caster, replicate the camber setting based on the old wishbones, and hopefully get the tracking adjusted with the help of a local member. Does this sound reasonable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hi Tom, are the sexy uprights painted or plated? Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Some form of zinc coating, I dont know the technique Im afraid, they just look lovely and were £20 each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Nice finish looks like it could be Alocrom 1200, done with chemicals i think.Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 If interested, Aerotech Precision Coatings in Bolton did the work.http://www.aerotecprecisionfinishing.co.uk/aerotec/Available_finishes.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Hi Tom, not wishing to piss on your chips, but ask the plating company if hydrogen de-embrittlment was carried out after the plating was applied. Do a Google for hydrogen embrittlement, and have a read. Regards, Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Hmmm interesting evening. I've fitted the rack back in, with new rod ends and 40mm extension pieces. I've turned the rod ends approximately 11 times as per my build manual to give an approximate tracking. There is 22mm of thread showing on the track rod between the lock nut and the end of the thread in each side, so I think they are symmetrical. However, when the steering column and UJ are connected to the rack, and with the steering wheel straight ahead, the wheels do not point the same way! It's not that they point in the wrong way in equal amounts, but the left one points left, when the right is straight ahead.Now Im confused. I don't understand why they are not straight, or at least wonky in equal measures. Is the rack designed so that the inside wheel turns more than the outside to cope with tighter turning radius?Is there something peculiar with widetrack such that each side isn't set the same on the track rod? Is it because the car is on stands and the suspension in droop?Is one track rod longer than the other and I've never noticed?is it normal to need differing amounts of adjustment on the track rod end, left to right?The car is one of last pre 1996 chassis change, so has the combined rear wishbone/ damper mount if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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