Sigma Engine Removal - Bit Stuck

[ChrisC]

Hi All 

I am trying to fix an oil leak from the gearbox / bellhousing so I am in the process of removing me Sigma engine. 

All is disconnected, but the engine mounts and prop are left.   I have drained (sucked out) the gearbox oil.  I have purchased an engine leveler to aid the removeal 

So my questions?

Do I remove the prop first, or do I pull the prop out as I lift the engine/gearbox?

Hope someone can help

 

[Jonathan Kay]

(Crossed with Mankee's.)

Leave prop shaft connected to diff.

Have you got an Assembly Guide?

Jonathan

[Mankee]

No experience of a Sigma engine, but since your query is mainly related to the prop, I have wiggled the prop out gradually while lifting my K-series/box out. I've tried it leaving the prop bolted to the diff flange as well as unbolting it from the diff flange and it makes no real odds to be honest. A bit more wiggle room upon refitting with the prop unbolted from the flange. Also, I don't think you can remove the prop without removing the diff and backing it out of the chassis.

[ChrisC]

Thanks guys, will leave prop shaft connected to the diff and in place. I have an Assembly Guide.

 

[DJ.]

I don't think you can remove the prop without moving the engine forward. When I installed my engine I had the prop loose but supported with some string, but leaving it attached to the diff should be fine and saves you torquing up the bolts again which is a pain of a job. Remember to remove both engine mounts before moving the engine as they are quite close to the alloy sides.

 

Duncan

[ChrisC]

Thanks Ducan, will do :)

[mikecocker]

You can avoid draining gearbox if you use a plastic plug which you put in as soon as the prop comes free. Definitely  remove engine mounts and I also remove belt tensioner which makes life easier.

[Domus]

My experience with the Sigma gearbox leak was that it was the top inspection cover gasket that was leaking.  Thin metal cover deformed by over tightening the screws and a paper thin gasket is a poor combination.  Hylomar on a new gasket, flatten the deformed plate (small hammer on a vice anvil) and re fit using flat washers to spread the load.  I also fitted a filler plug to the corner of the top plate nearest the pedal box.  If you measure down from the top face to the fill/level plug you can make a dipstick.

[Paul Richards]

Agree with mikecocker. Removing belt tensioner is a LADS top tip. Makes it much easier.

[ChrisC]

Thanks guys 

All out no problem.

 

[Andy Harris]

I have the same oil leak - between the gearbox and bellhousing. Now clutch is slipping as well. What was the source of your oil leak? It seems that it is common for it to be from the input shaft seal.

I plan to remove engine and gearbox this weekend.

[Martin J]

I think in some cases problems arise with this seal when it is initally assembled dry. I lubricated the shaft with a little grease to help prevent it from becoming damaged.

[ChrisC]

Mine was a very small amount between the bell housing and the gearbox.  Once cleaned at the end of a blat no more oil would be dropped.  The gasket was dry (no sealant) under the selector shaft hole with oil running into the first section of the bell housing, but not into the clutch/flywheel area.

My gearbox was also over filled, I took out nearly 2lt out, not the correct 1.2 lt.

 

[Andy Harris]

I'm planning to remove the engine and gearbox tomorrow (Sigma). I rememmber when I was building it the manual said of the push fit connection between the fuel pipe and the white elbow connection on the fuel rail that "once fitted the pipe cannot be removed without a special tool".

Is this the case? Is there an alternative way to separate the connection?

Thanks, Andy.

[John Vine]

 The gasket was dry (no sealant)

That's very naughty.  I assume it was kit-built?

 

Is this the case? Is there an alternative way to separate the connection?

Well, this suggests a possible way.  Would it work for a Sigma?  I couldn't say.

JV

[DJ.]

The fuel pipe has a section of spring loaded plastic that locks it on. If you can access this part and press it in the it will come off easily.

 

Most kit builders would know to seal that gasket. They would also use coppaslip on bolts and apply anti corrosion protection unlike the factory mechanics who have to work to a schedule.

 

Nb Have just read the link above and it sounds like a different system. Nothing needs to be removed to release the fuel hose.

[Andy Harris]

Many thanks for the replies, very helpful. 

[Domus]

 

I struggled with the fuel hose for so long, trying to push open the retainer. Very frustrating.   Eventually it broke 

 

So I inserted a small cable tie when re fitting, still working fine over a year later.  All it does is keep an "O" ring in place, in fact the cable tie might be stronger.