K200CSR Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I've started the strip-down of my car, which includes removing the diff.I have two questions:Are the bold used to fasten the prop-shaft to the diff one-use bolts or can I re-thread-lock them and re-use?The seconds, and more immediate issue, is how and earth do you extract the diff once the prop-shaft, half shafts, top and bottom bolts have been removed?We have struggled for two hours to try and tease the diff out but so far it refuses to come out.I didn't build the car so don't have any build instructions.Kind regardsCharlesK200CSR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted December 8, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted December 8, 2014 CharlesOk to re-use bolts with thread lock. As far as removing diff, no experience of CSR, but would have expected it to fall out if you have removed all the bolts. Sounds like you need to use a bigger hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Is there something very different about the CSR ..... on my SV it is very easy to drop the diff out once prop, one drive shaft and three big bolts have been removed. Gravity is a useful feature ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Ive only had a cursory look at a CSR chassis with the dif in place and that was some time ago so I may be wrong BUT.I seem to recall that there are diagonal chassis bracing bars that run under the the diff that stops the diff from just dropping down like it would in an S3 or SV chassis. In a similar way there are ones to the rear and the top and the rear bracing restricts the movement backward.Would removing the pinion flange give you more room or are you not able to get at it because the prop shaft is in the way?The only other suggestions other than twisting it so its on it side and then lowering it is have you checked to see if its possible to lift it out through the boot floor?I think that I would give CC workshop a call to see how they would do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 8, 2014 Member Share Posted December 8, 2014 We have struggled for two hours to try and tease the diff out but so far it refuses to come out.What OBNS says... is the problem that it's tight in its mounts or that you can't get it past the members*? Jonathan*Political analogies are available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Undo the mounting bolt for the 3 way brake union, slide the diff backwards and rotate the diff, allowing the nose to drop down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADMALC Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Can we confirm that on a CSR the nose of the diff comes out of the chassis first? and on refit the 'fat bit' goes into the chassis first?The diff is free of it's mountings and is resting within the myriad of chassis tubes and smirking at us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 That's what Mic appears to suggest .... and he should know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K200CSR Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Malc, cheers for chasing this for me and Mic cheers for the heads-up.I guess this method also helps you keep the diff oil in the diff!Task for tonight / Thursday, try the extract and remove the diff oil from the garage floor.Thank you all for your feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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