New Build - Rustproofing

[Vesmeister]

My Roadsport kit is due to arrive in the next couple of weeks. What's the consensus of opinion on rustproofing during the build?  I'm currently leaning towards Dinotrol 3125 but not sure whether you should only do the obvious grot traps or also include all the flat surfaces such as the whole engine bay? Also, what about the underside of the car?

[DJ.]

I have found the Dinitrol 3125 cavity wax is very good. Seems to penetrate well and stays on.

I noticed on a factory visit that they were using adhesve heat reflective sheet at the ends of the footwells and using it to cover the grot trap area. So I gave the grot traps a good spray, then applied the heat shielding onto the fronts of the footwells and the inner surfaces towards the transmission tunnel.

I also sprayed:

1. all along the inside skins of the engine bay,

2. Inside the transmission tunnel

3. Rear bulkhead area and shock mounts

4. all over the fuel tank and particularly behind/beside the fuel tank- try and get plenty in where the skin wraps around the lower tube at the back.

5. All under the floor (and I put some heavier wax on this as well).

One place I didn't think of is the floors under the seats- after 3 years I had the seats out and found corrosion here, so give this a spray as well but don't put anything under your seat if you do

Hope this helps, but I have to say, I won't drive my car when there is salt on the road. Thin aluminium sheet wrapped around steel is going to suffer electrolytic corrosion and salt will speed this up no end http://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/sad_smile.png

Duncan

[MADMALC]

Ihttp://www.lotus7.club/sites/all/libraries/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/heart.pngwaxoil

[Richard Ryland]

 

If doing any panel refitting you may want to have a look at the following. Sorry, trying to copy and paste on phone so formatting may be a bit random.

TD06.02 Duralac Green Anti Corrosive Jointing Compound

______________________________________________________________________________________________

Description Duralac Green is a chromate free jointing compound designed to inhibit electrolytic decomposition between dissimilar metals – often called galvanic corrosion. It is a single pack, air setting product. Used correctly, Duralac Green prevents anodic decomposition.

Form Duralac Green is a free flowing paste based on a synthetic elastic resin and anti corrosive

pigments, Duralac Green conforms to specification DTD 369B, which superseded DTD 369A.

Properties Duralac Green has low solubility in water and will not erode with time; even when subjected to high pressure from considerable water flow. Duralac Green enjoys excellent adhesion properties to most substrates and because of its tough flexible composition, has very low water absorption. Duralac Green has a two year shelf life from the date of despatch when stored

below 20°C. Once a container is opened, the remaining Duralac Green will form a skin.

Uses Duralac Green is indispensable for the sealing of joints between dissimilar metals of all types; including magnesium and its alloys. Consideration should also be given to galvanic corrosion of the same metal where the electrolyte varies in concentration forming a concentration cell. Duralac Green has excellent protection properties for metals in contact with wood, synthetic resin composition, leather, rubber, fabrics etc. When components of a structure are of different materials, it is essential the ‘points or faces’ of contact be treated with Duralac Green to inhibit corrosion in the presence of an electrolyte where considerable differences in potential arise. Components of the same metal in contact with one another under different stresses will also

benefit from the use of Duralac Green to inhibit corrosion. For example Duralac Green may be used:

-  Between aluminium alloy plates/extrusions and bolts or rivets used in building applications;

-  In general engineering applications where dissimilar contact cannot be avoided;

-  In vehicle building where aluminium alloy contacts steel;

-  For marine application where corrosion is accelerated by brine concentration;

-  In close proximity to the sea where a salt laden atmosphere will meet with structures and set up electrolytic cells;

-  In Aerospace where rivets/bolts are secured into aluminium plates. 

[NedK]

I've been trying to figure this out too. Couple of extra questions:

- Is it advised to spray inside the chassis tubing, too? I've seen various pros and not too many cons. The pre-build stage would be the easiest time to do this, of course

- If yes, do Caterham chassis tubes have vent holes when they are welded? Are they sealed afterwards? Threaded plugs perhaps?

- Finally, do Caterham seal between the aluminium and steel when riveting on the panels?

Many thanks for any tips!
N

[6speedmanual]

Answer to final question - No.

(carr ret) Answer to penultimate q - a small number but not enough to reasonably inject wax.

(carr ret)Peter

[NedK]

Many thanks, Peter. I can't decide whether it's worth messing around with the frame or just leaving as is. Looking at the threads on here, I can't see too much complaining about rusty frames.

Ned