MarcNS Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I plan to start running in my new upgraded Xflow engine tomorrow and have read different ways of how to do this. Your advice would be appreciated. Edited by - Marcns on 13 Sep 2014 19:19:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil66 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 This makes sense and seems to work for me & a wadge of biker mates I know wind it to the red line from the word go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 There are a lot of suggested techniques, but to my mind the crucial things are: Vary the speed of the engine, always allow the oil to warm before using high revs, don't labour the engine and do an early oil change. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted September 13, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted September 13, 2014 Once the engine is really warmed up (oil and coolant - so at least 20 miles) just drive as you normally would. BUT in the end, do what the engine builder suggests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Don't try running it in using synthetic oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Generally, as Duncan says. But it does depend to a great extent on the bore finish and the type of rings. If you have a plateau honed bore finish and modern type rings you would normally expect to be able to drive fairly normally from the word go, but without giving it a total thrashing for around a thousand miles. If you have a non-plateau finish and old type rings, you need to be much more gentle initially. You do have to bed the camshaft in as well and general advice is to run at around 2500rpm for half an hour before driving the car. However, the ultimate instruction must come from the builder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil66 Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Quoting OliverSedlacek: Don't try running it in using synthetic oil. *arrowup*Totally agree - once in my yoof I built a howling A-series but stupidly used mobil1 for the build - the rings never ran in... Here´s another tip re dry building the pistons & running the engine hard from the outset.. Edited by - Neil66 on 14 Sep 2014 10:14:58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 Many thanks, Engine builder said to run below 4000 rpm for first 500 miles then i take back to get duplex valve spring put on. So far it has run for 10 mins on the drive at 2000 rpm and driven up an down street to sort out running. It had a few minor issues to sort out, so has been run for another 10 mins to check everything is working on the cooling front as, I had removed the small top heater hose and it changed the heat up process, after locating new heater elbow and pipe connector (from Ford!) it has fixed this issue. It has a sump leak for some strange reason, which is a real pain after spending so much money on the engine. I have tightened the bolts up half a turn but it is going on a ramp to have a look, so at the same time, I could change the oil to something else; for first 500 miles I am using Halfords classic oil, what is running in oil? Marc Edited by - MarcNS on 14 Sep 2014 12:49:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 14, 2014 Member Share Posted September 14, 2014 Quoting MarcNS: ... for first 500 miles I am using Halfords classic oil, what is running in oil?I'd talk to the engine builder before starting it again. Did they not give you written instructions? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard K Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Marc, I used Millers CRO 10w40 - Competition Running-in-oil as recommended by Burton Performance. Then changed to Millers COR 20w50 a synthetic fortified oil after 500 miles. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Many thanks Richard. Have spoken to Millers classic agent Robin from Woodcote, and have gone for the performance running in oil with I think a semi synthetic 20/50 to follow. He didn't think the Hafords 20/50 classic would do too much harm whilst setting up the engine, we cranked the engine first to get the oil pressure up before finally firing the engine up. Trouble is that I now have 10 litres of Valvoline racing 20/50 going spare. I still have a new sump gasket to put on as the Cometic didnt work. The engine builder and Robin suggest once the engine is running to drive it up some hills for 500 miles and not to idle the engine. just to add - after 500 miles it goes back for valve springs to change to duplex, so no going over 4000 rpm for first 500 miles. The cam is a Holbay K3A with a power band from 3000-8000rpm, so should be interesting. Edited by - MarcNS on 16 Sep 2014 21:13:32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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