Tony C Posted January 8, 2003 Share Posted January 8, 2003 From a photo of an instalation I can see that the braided hose from the engine side screws into a 'T' Piece, with the sensor screwed into another leg. Can one of you fine people tell me if the other leg of the 'T' Piece is blanked-off or is it a bleed screw to get the air out? Cheers, Tony Waiting for my GREEN SV kit 😬 Is there any other colour? (Sumo Version?) - 10 1/2 weeks to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 Tony is this a dry sump r3 or4 if the answer is yes. you will have a sender unit that blanks of the end. a bit of a waste of a unit a plug would have done the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 The idea of the T piece is to enable the addition of a low pressure switch leading to a light on the dash. If none is installed, then the T is blanked off. The Stack dash shouldn't need such as the dash itself can be set to respond to minimums... as can my Spa gauges (hardly standard fare though). Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 V7 i like the idea of a safety light do you use a different switch and just run a feed wire +fit a nice big bulb on the dash . what switch ect . the stack is fine but a second safety light sounds better if you are not paying attention to the dash . Edited by - fred on 9 Jan 2003 10:27:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 If you've got the original analogue gauges, you don't have the option to drive a low pressure warning light from the gauge itself, so Caterham fit an extra cable in the loom to allow the fitment of a low pressure warning switch. It's black and yellow and the unterminated end can be found near to the left hand front light connector. You can buy a range of switches from Caterham I believe, each with different switch on pressures. They are not user-calibratable (is that a real word?) though. You'll need to wire a live feed to the bulb/LED. The switch only switches to earth. Plenty of switched lives found in the fuse box, although access is a pain. I did mine while the scuttle was off (during an ambitious re-wiring project this Winter). BUT, if you've got either a Stack dash or, as in my case, Spa dual digital gauges, then the gauges themselves can be set to drive external warning lights. I'm not 100% certain of this fact regarding the Caterham-sourced Stack dash though, but would be surprised if not. Certainly those Stack dash's found on their web site can. It's much easier to drive the external warning light from the gauges, but if you are moving from the rigidly mounted pressure sender to a remote mounted one (a good thing), then you may as well make the effort to install the low pressure switch. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 Do Caterham sell the remote sensor kit or do I get it from someplace like Thinkauto? Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 I believe you can get it from either, although Caterham will know exactly what you want whereas you may have to specify thread sizes for TA. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 "Think Automotive" do an adjustable pressure switch that can be set (if checked alongside a calibrated gauge) to come on at any pressure you like (from about 15 to 60 psi I seem to remember). I got one for Mick 'Demon K' Smith. It can be set a little higher than Caterhams std issue so as to prevent that annoying big-red-light-on-at-tickover syndrome but still provide excellent early warning! Clamshell Club Founder Member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted January 9, 2003 Author Share Posted January 9, 2003 Thanks guys 😬. So unless a low pressure warning light is fitted, the "spare" leg on the 'T' piece is blanked off. How does one get the air out of the braided hose then? I would have thought that trapped air would give wonky pressure readings though. Think Automotive sell some BIG low pressure warning lights which I would think would be ideal for the purpose - 30mm I seem to remember. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slipper man Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 Guys - you may be able to help me here. My R500 has exactly this set up with an unused pressure sensor at the front of the car, and the BIG YELLOW LIGHT driven from the Stack. The problem is that the Caterham Stack system is set up (and not reprogrammable apparantly) to quite a low psi reading, and only when the revs are above a threshold. This means that when you switch on the ignition, the light doesn't come on, so you never actually know if the bulb is working (hopefully!) So I am thinking that I will wire up the unused sensor seperately to the big light. Trouble is, how do they work? Is the pressure switch one that is closed below the set psi limit and then opens, or vice versa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted January 12, 2003 Share Posted January 12, 2003 Basically the sensor will provide an earth below its threshold, so you just wire an ignition +ve feed through your warning light and out to your sensor. You must ensure the sensor "T" is bolted to earth, though, obviously! This way, the light goes out once the motor's up and running but you get a bulb check every time you fire up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 You could fit a pressure sender in the Apollo tank if you have one, to the same effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 could you give us contact details for mick? i've got a mate who added one, and put the wording "Game Over" under it. scares the p*ss out of unknowing punters that go out with him.... 😬 Steve Metalic Black SV-VHPD click here to see our pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 TonyC, pressure is pressure, whether it's air or oil. Oil pressure is constant... well less transient than brake pressure. You don't want air in the brake system because it induces a spongy pedal. The oil pump doesn't care about that. Keith, are you saying that you don't even get the warning light come on when you switch the ignition on BEFORE you hit the starter? If so, then it's not working. You can't get less oil pressure than when the engine's not running. If you go for the separate switch, then you need to find a switched earth to feed the dash light with. The pressure switch will switch to earth when below the required pressure. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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