Myles Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Ok, so I started to remove the FIA bar on my car - to be replaced (hopefully) by a full cage. The joys of working on a car that has lived outside for ten years! I haven't yet got to the bolts that I need to drop the shocks for - that's all that is left - but the passenger left-hand harness bolt has sheered off - fortunately leaving a good 12mm or more exposed. This needs sorting before I put the cage on as there is very little space above it before you run into the diagonal. I have no welding kit and a pretty-weedy blow torch. And a can of plus-gas equivalent. So - do I try to do it myself (I have mole-grips etc. at my disposal), or, when I've got the rollbar off, do I drive it around to my local garage and get them to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob L Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Plus Gas, time to really soak in and mole grips has always worked for me in the past. The best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Unless you're going to grind it flat to clear the roll cage, definitely soak the thread in plus-gas and keep adding it for 24 hours to ensure that it really penetrates. Build up a little dam out of plasticine to hold the oil. You could then try loosening it with mole grips or, better still, a set of stilsons. Try turning clockwise as well as this can sometimes free a stuck bolt. If that doesn't work and you still want to get it out, get a bar welded onto the top but be careful you don't tear the bush out of the chassis rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 Thanks. I need to replace the bolt as it is needed for the passenger shoulder belt. I do routinely try tightening bolts before removing them - a trick i was taught only fairly recently - just in time to avoid screwing up the head on my BEC engine... I'm not great on patience - would like to get the cage finished today/tomorrow if possible. Worst case, I guess, is that I have to take the cage back off later. The car isn't set up for a passenger just now and the bolt won't stop the cage going on. I'll try the plus gas routine - and the little dam. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Hit it too - good blows to shock it. Even better if you can hit it while applying torque. Even a weedy blow torch can help to loosen a corrosion grip. Did it unscrew at all? If it did, you might be better winding it back in until it's free, tidying the threads up or cutting it flush, and unwinding from the underside, if they are how I remember them, open to the underside. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 16, 2014 Member Share Posted August 16, 2014 If there's a good stub protruding is cutting a slot and using a screwdriver any better than using a self-grip wrench on the thread? Thanks Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 IMHO a good Stilson on threads will always do better than cutting a slot for a screwdriver, if no Stilson would it be possible to file a couple of flats for a conventional spanner. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 It never moved - well stuck. My bigger problem is now the stupid bolts that rise into the bar above the shock mounts. These have the really-stupid half-height heads. I've ground down a socket so that it doesn't have any chamfer, but nothing wants to move. I'll try heat - no practical way of getting plus gas vertically upwards. If that fails, I'll be back to ask how I grind off the heads in such a confined space...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Myles If applying oxy/acet levels of heat there's a high chance of melting the braze holding the bush in... care! For the upwards bolts above shocks, method I used was to drill head off using large dia drill, 12mm iirc. I then sawed the boss off the cage and had a new one made complete with threaded hole. Nice big chamfer round joining on end. Linished base of cage and welded new boss on to cage. Touch in with Black satin Hammerite. The finished job was functionally and aesthetically excellent. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Myles just been through this with mine, the half head bolts are a PITA, which size socket did you grind down, I ground down a 14mm and managed to hammer it on, then used ratchet bar and a three foot chunk of steel tube to give a bit more torque 😬 somewhere there is a thread that discusses using a jack to apply enough pressure to back of the ratchet head to hold it onto the bolt head (sorry can't find it at the moment , having said all this, I have a bit more space to play with on the CSR, don't need to drop the shocks, which is even more annoying as there is no good reason to fit the half head bolts, they are certainly not going back in. Plus gas will capillary upwards to some extent. Jack and bolt thread Tim Edited by - tbird on 16 Aug 2014 18:01:53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baz Hemsley Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Have you tried swearing at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 Thanks. I found the jack discussion. Managed to get one out this way 😬 Passenger side won't play though - I think I've damaged the head too much already and the socket keeps slipping off even with the weight of the car on it. I started with a 9/16 (I think) socket - then changed to a 14mm when I found that in the archives. Certainly seems to fit better - but the damage may be done, Weather has turned - and I'm off out in a bit - so I've plus-gassed as much as I can and will try again tomorrow. If all else fails, I'll be getting the drill out. My blowtorch is probably not up to the job - it's only a kitchen one really I did try it on the sheered harness bolt and it did nothing - and was pretty cool after a short while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I suppose a screw extractor might work, but I have never had a lot of luck with them on anything other than fairly small screws, and if the extractor shears you are knackered in terms of drilling bolt out thinking about it your seat belt bolt might respond to a stud extractor Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 generally, 6 point are better than 12 point sockets for getting out stuck bolts as they don't round the head off so easily. Even a cheap set of 'Laser' impact sockets will do the job, provided you grind them flat first. Unfortunately it sounds as though it might be a bit late for your remaining roll bar bolt ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJG Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Myles, I have a set of these and they have usually got me out of trouble. Happy to post an assortment off if you think they may help. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Tony, your link doesn't work for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Looks like the website is down, not the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 17, 2014 Member Share Posted August 17, 2014 That link worked fine earlier. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJG Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Website is still down, they are a decent quality version of these Tony ps not that I am in any way suggesting that the ebay version is of poor quality. You never know who's reading blatchat 😬. Edited by - TJG on 17 Aug 2014 10:15:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal mickey Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I've never had any real success with stud extractors, they all work by trying to grab on the inside of a hole and exert even more force onto the seized area. A very good solution are l/h twist drills. Centre punch the centre of the seized bolt and drill a hole straight through with a small drill. Don't hesitate when drilling and try to generate heat without burning the drill tip. Work up in successive sizes and 9 times out of 10 the seized bolt will free off and unscrew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I'd be inclined to drill the thin headed bolt and purposely shear the head off. Once the FIA bar is off the car you can have a proper go at removing the remainder. When I assembled my car I used coppa slip on most of the bolts etc and have not had any issues with taking things apart. Many bad experiences working on old cars! Regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 It's out. Plusgas overnight - and the jack/wood trick got it out. That harness stuff is another matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon.Rogers1 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 here Also similar set up available from Machine Mart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 17, 2014 Member Share Posted August 17, 2014 Well done. Is the wood used to bring up the force from the jack onto the end of the tool? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Yep - it's main purpose IMHO is to prevent the socket from trying to ride up and round off the corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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