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VX Race Engine ARP Big End /Main Caps


Rob Walker

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Can anyone tell me if the VX race engines as supplied by Minister about 1992 had the uprated ARP bolts fitted. If fitted was it just the main caps or the big ends as well.

 

Any other uprated bits fitted other than the 48 Webbers, in particular solid lifters ??????????

 

Many thanks

 

Rob

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I've only ever heard of the rod bolts being replaced. Rod bolts face reciprocating loads up to 5 tonnes, whereas the thrust loads from combustion are much smaller. (I appreciate that this is a theoretical answer that you probably already know). FWIW, I have heard lots of accounts of "just change the rod bolts for ARP ones and you are good for 8000+ rpm"
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I just ordered rod end bolts for my Vx. directly from ARP. The cost was $54.

 

The ARP part number is 209-6003.

 

They have a good web site and you can probably order directly from the site. Since I'm in the states I simply called them and had them shipped. The cost was so reasonable I had 2 sets sent.

 

Bart, 93 Caterham HPC

 

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I did reply a couple of days ago but then I managed to trash it before sending it and couldn't be ar*ed to type it again. Is that the worst excuse ever?

 

I've built my engine at SBD each winter for the last five or so years and have never seen or had recomended ARP mains so I conclude they aren't necessary. As PC says the same then it must be true!! SBD recomend, sell and use themselves a good quality cap screw of the relevent length and thread for less than a tenner a set. I use a new set each build, maybe necessary, may not, but for a tenner who's risking it?

 

ARP rod bolts are a different matter, according to SBD necessary if you want to rev past the standard 7500 rpm. No doubt someone has revved higher without them but again for 50 quid a set in the UK (how much are they in US? robbing bastards....) why risk it.

 

Sure everyone knows but can't say it too many times..... Be aware that many aftermarket rod bolts including ARP have a radius under the head of the bolt. The holes in the rod cap however do not. If you fit the uprated bolts to a standard main cap the radius will bottom on the edge of the hole before the flat head of the bolt contacts the flat of the main cap and no doubt there will be dire consequences. You need to cut a small chamfer on the edge of the hole to clear the radius on the bolt. A hand held countersink tool with a 90deg head will do it easily you only need to remove a tiny amount of material. If you fit the bolts with the engine in situ with just the sump off all the swarf will fall down into your eyes and not anywhere important. Sounds a lot harder in writing than it is really.

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