MarcNS Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I have spent a weekend bending over (with a bad back) trying to get the Xflow back in the car, only for one of the engine mountings to be a a good 20mm out from bolting in. Its the drivers side but the other issue is the high pressure/capacity oil pump is hitting the steering column. I then thought I had better get the bolts tight on the bellhousing (type 2) as this might help and now one has sheered off in the block (one of the 2 top bolts). I probably need a new set of bolts and need to know which ones go where (the engine build has taken months) I should have labelled them. ☹️ Does any one have a tried and trusted route and torque settings please? Some photos on my facebook page: Marc N. Smith (I don't know how to do the link) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 On the old Xflow I used the standard approach my Father used when he was in the motor trade for torquing up when I didn't have a specific value - "Finger tight and half a turn". When I was reinstalling my Xflow after it's rebuild (now replaced with a zetec) I had the same issue with te steering column. Slacken off the steering rack bolts and rotate it to move the column up or down. Do not tighten any bolts up until they are all in place, then do them up slowly in turn to pull everything into place (I find it works for me!) Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 21, 2014 Member Share Posted July 21, 2014 I've got the 1998 Assembly Guide. Send me a BlatMail if you'd like the "Engine and Cooling Kit" chapter. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks, Once bolt fixed I will slacken everything off and move the steering. I have the build manual but no torque settings for the engine to bellhousing in mine. So I need to work out which bolts go where, I have the Caterham, Haynes mexico/BDA and Haynes 1600 manuals but none of these go in to that detail. Type 2 box has integral bellhousing. I guess the sheered bolt needs drilling out with a pilot then hope for the best. I think they are all imperial sizes so if I buy a tap and die set they are probably all metric? The engine to bellhousing bolts were of different lengths and I put the longest ones in the top two holes I think one got to the end of the thread and snapped. Marc Edited by - MarcNS on 21 Jul 2014 14:25:43 Edited by - MarcNS on 21 Jul 2014 14:28:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 21, 2014 Member Share Posted July 21, 2014 There are default recommended torque settings for each size of bolt in the "Basic assembly" chapter. What are the bolts? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Just buy the right size and thread type imperial tap and corresponding drill. Supplier can confirm right drill size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 The dog was no use at all. Not sure the size of the bolt, but they are all listed in the manual, I just need to check bolt lengths and where the longer ones go. Edited by - MarcNS on 21 Jul 2014 15:00:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Has it sheared at the bell housing face? You could just pull the box and engine apart and then grip the end of the bolt and turn it out. This will preserve the thread and requires no drilling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 It is fairly flush with the block. Sometimes, pictures can't tell a thousand words. Edited by - MarcNS on 21 Jul 2014 15:02:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 21, 2014 Member Share Posted July 21, 2014 Apparently there are lots of different ways of removing snapped or sheared bolts. But I suspect there is a problem for those of us who don't intend it do it very often: the cost of good extractors or good taps. What's the cheapest that's worth buying? Thanks Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I do wonder just how much torque you put on a 3/8"UNC bolt to snap it! However, you may be in luck here. If you have simply snapped it through overtightening then the thread portion in the block may well actually be free to turn. If you get a centre punch and a small hammer you may be able to gently tap the broken part anticlockwise in the block and persuade it to rotate out. If, on the other hand, it has actually seized in the block for some reason (if for instance you've used too long a bolt and it has bottomed out), then you will probably have no option other than to machine it out or use some type of extractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 On a friend of mine his X-flow that same bolt is also sheared for years now, not a single problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 from memory I had the torque wrench at 60 nm bolt is spanner size 11/16 thread size 7/16 UNF, it has probably lost 1 3rd of length in block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Seriously, ALL threads in the Crossflow block other than gallery plugs are UNC. If you've forced a UNF in, then that might be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 That may well be the issue, The difference is 2 threads per inch, so its tightened up and jammed. Sounds like a big job, not sure how to go about it. Drillout and re-tapping?, probably back to my engine man and will order new correct bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 21, 2014 Member Share Posted July 21, 2014 Quoting MarcNS: Sounds like a big job, not sure how to go about it.I'd ask if someone would come and help me... Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcNS Posted July 26, 2014 Author Share Posted July 26, 2014 The bolt extraction went well with the bolt coming out almost intact with a combo or imperial drills. The issue is that the bolt head fits a 17mm spanner best on all the bellhousing bolts, I have ordered a new set of bolts but something doesn't add up. The bolts in to the AX block look metric and the bolts in to the Type 2 bellhousing imperial? Marc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal mickey Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 I think someone has made a mistake. M10 thread pitch is 1.5mm which approximately converts to 16.7 tpi. 3/8 unc is 16tpi. A bolt head spanner size of 17mm would indicate a 10mm bolt has been used in error and hence seized part way in. Remove another bolt and try a 3/8 unc bolt to check for the correct thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 I believe bellhousing to engine block is 3/8" UNC and bellhousing to gearbox is M12 x 60mm fine thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Correct! There are NO metric threads on a Crossflow block. Edited by - Roger King on 26 Jul 2014 22:48:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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