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Engine first start.....immobiliser


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Hi

 

Was trying for first start of supersport r and trying to crank for oil pressure. The car appears to be immobilised. Red light flashing fast when ignition on and it won,t crank. How do I de immobilise it....!! Thanks Will

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There should be a small pebble like fob on the key ring with the key. When you turn the key to the position just before cranking, you need to push the fob up against the key barrel. There is a wire around the barrel and that is the immobilizer receiver. You will know when it has seen the fob as the fuel pump will kick in for a few seconds and the red light will stop flashing.

 

Apologies if you know that and it is still not working.

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if you have a keyless system then you need to put the fob in the little well at the top of the transmission tunnel under the scuttle - the antenna is there.

 

It may take a wiggle to get it to register but when is does the light goes out and you will here the fuel pump fire up (assuming you have the fuel inertia connected and activated)

 

Therefore process is

 

Press start button

Wiggle fob till light goes out / fuel pump primes

Press start again to crank

 

or as JK suggests break with man law and read the handbook !! *eek*

 

Edited by - Smiffy69 on 19 Jul 2014 10:41:38

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Thanks Andrew and your blog has been incredibly useful. When i wave the fob it light goes off. Should it go solid red to allow the start or off as it is now? I haven't fuelled the car yet but can't see how that would stop a crank? Thank you
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Hi Will,

 

At a guess there may be some kind of ECU / sensor feature where having no fuel prevents the engine turning over. When I started mine I did fill with fuel but then disconnected the inertia switch so no fuel went through and the engine just turned over to build oil pressure.

 

Andrew

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Fueled the car but still won't start..... Should the immobiliser light be solid red on or off when you are trying to start the car?
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Quoting william.hindmarch: 
I haven't fuelled the car yet but can't see how that would stop a crank? Thank you

 

If it is like my car the immobilizer works by cutting the fuel pump and starter circuits.

 

If the immobiliser light is going off, you should hear the fuel pump and it should turn over ok.

Have you pressed the safety inertia switch on the bulkhead to reset it? That might be stopping the fuel pump.

 

Duncan

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I've just checked mine and the light goes off when the fob turns the immobilizer off.

 

How much fuel did you put in? I may have read that you need at least 15 litres, then again I may just think I read that. I can't find a link to that at the moment.

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Thanks Duncan and Andrew. 15 litres of fuel is in. Inertia switch disconnected as it is the first start and I therefore need to crank for oil pressure. Maybe I should reconnect the inertia switch, reset it and then disconnect again...worth a try I guess! Otherwise I better start looking at my starter motor wiring...
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The manual and the wiring are definitely not well co-ordinated for the 2.0L duratec. Tom Woodis has a good blog which I used and I may well have taken a picture of my wiring when I did it.

 

I take it the speedo lights come on and read 000000 and the needles pull below zero then settle?

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1 What model, engine and dash?

 

2 I can't tell if you've conquered your immobiliser.

 

3 Have you ever heard the fuel pump joining in?

 

4 Check ECU fuse.

 

5 What's the battery voltage at rest and does it change at all when you try and crank?

 

6 I'd disable the ignition in some other way, reconnect and reset the inertia switch, make sure the immobiliser is off and then try starting.

 

Jonathan

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Hi Will,

 

Have emailed you about this but in case you pick this up first, couple of things to look at:

 

1) has the battery lost a lot of its charge during the build? I found I had to charge mine during the build. The immobiliser can drain it sometimes. Listen for clicking when starting, that could signify flat battery

 

2) the immobiliser lights should go out completely once you've got ignition on and you've touched the fob against the wire around the ignition barrel.

 

3) make sure you've wired up the two brown leads that have ring terminals on the end to the correct terminal of the starter motor, I struggled to work this out during

My build as no mention of them in the manual

 

Tom

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Many thanks Tom and Jonathan, much appreciated and will look again tomorrow. I am now suspecting I may have wired up the starter solenoid wrong. Does anyone have a picture of how this should be done on a duratec? Thanks Will
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I don't know what diagrams you have already. I can send you the Duratec diagrams tomorrow.

 

What colour are the thin wires you have connected to the terminals on the starter? If you can locate the one that turns it on you can test what voltage it goes to when you try to start. This will tell you whether the fault lies in the connections (possible) or the starter (unlikely*) or in the signal (which could still be a problem with the immobiliser).

 

Jonathan

 

* The fault is not in our starters... but in ourselves.

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Thanks Johnathan. I will need to check on the car in the morning but from memory I have the outboard solenoid connector with the battery positive and the two brown cables from the main loom attached and then the inboard connector just has the earth attached .. does this sound correct? thanks Will
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Hi Andrew and Jonathan. Thanks so much for the photos and comments. Will check the car ASAP and report back! Kind regards Will
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Hi Andrew. Thanks again for the pictures. Just checked my car and it is wired the same way. Outboard terminal as battery positive, two brown wires from the loom and the alternator connection. The inboard terminal has nothing on the lower terminal the red and white wires as you have. Just stuck the battery on charge ( again) to see if that is the problem although I doubt it as it was charged not long ago. I am confident the immobiliser is disabled...so it is still a bit of a mystery...! Bit of an anitclimax after a few months of building!!!
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Hi All

 

It is running! Got a local guy to come with electrical test kit. He traced the fault back. On the back of the fusebox one of the wires had fallen out or was never put in… would never have found this to be honest so glad I got some assistance. Anyway v pleased it is running and it wasn’t something I had screwed up!

 

Many thanks again for all you comments

 

Regards

 

Will

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That's good news. Always nice to know you're not being a numpty isn't it!

 

What's left to do then Will or is the car nearly done now?

 

Tom

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