Guest Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 And now a technical problem - I fitted a cigarette lighter to my 2005 7 in order to run a Garmin Nuvi 1300 GPS. Tapped the brake fluid warning light (+) connection for power. Earthed to the chassis at the pedal box cover.Charger light comes on OK. Garmin starts OK without hitting the on button - but Garmin battery does not charge. The charger lead is OK in another car (and I bought a spare yesterday) - and charges the Garmin. Has anybody any bright ideas as to the solution - I need one as my paper map disintegrated in the rain from LeMans to Caen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 8, 2014 Member Share Posted July 8, 2014 Similar problem discussed and probably solved here Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 See your other thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 We've had something very similar to this recently. You've got a poor connection someone, so the voltage is low. It's enough to light the LED but not enough to charge. You won't be able to tell by just checking the voltage on the socket - with no load you'll see 12v+. But as soon as you try to draw more than an amp or two, the voltage will plumet. Check the resistance between the positive connector in the socket and the battery positive, and the earth connector and the battery negative. If either of them are more than half an ohm, your problem lies on that side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 8, 2014 Member Share Posted July 8, 2014 PS: As in other thread... why not wire directly from the battery with an inline fuse? Or do you want it to be switched by the ignition? PPS: Welcome Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 OK - so far so good: "lashed" the positive connection directly to the battery and the Garmin now shows "charging" so many thanks for the suggestion. NOW I would like to permanently wire it to the ignition switch/circuit (so that it is off when ignition is). Car is a 2005 Academy 7 so has a battery cut off fitted. No diagram in manual. Fig 1 of general K-series circuit diagram in manual shows ignition switch with NU(Brown/blue), N (Brown) , WR (White/Red),W,W,N wires going clockwise - any ideas as to which I need to tap into in order to get switched power - I'm guessing N . I'll get therein the end! Many thanks in advance RIB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I found a spare switched terminal on my ignition switch .... by using a voltmeter to see which was 0V with ignition off and +12V with ignition on ... NOT in the starter position ... tgat is the red/white wire to solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 9, 2014 Member Share Posted July 9, 2014 Wiring colour codes in this thread. Don't forget the fuse. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 COLOUR KEY N = BROWN = 12v Supply B = BLACK = Earth W = WHITE = Ignition unfused power G = GREEN = Ignition fused power But do you really want it switched? It's useful to be able to power accessories with the ignition off, and you can always turn it right off with the FIA switch. Personally I would run a feed directly from the switched side of the FIA switch, via an in-line fuse, directly to the accessory socket. Then you won't need to worry about tapping into the existing wiring, and you'll know exactly where the power is coming from in case of future issues. The FIA switch is on the "wrong" side of the bulkhead if you're going to mount the socket in the bulkhead itself. You'd need to run the feed through the big hole in front of the gearstick where all the other wires go, or else make a new hole (with a grommet) in the bulkhead. Or if you don't need to have the FIA switch serve its original purpose, you can take the feed directly from the battery and make it even simpler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Problem solved - many thanks to everyone who assisted. Solution was to put a ring connector on the switched side of the FAI master switch which is much easier than attempting to tap into the ignition switch. .............and I did remember to put in an in line fuse. Less chance of getting lost in Northern France next time! RIB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nov-07 Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 And, if your Garmin is anything like mine, remember that it will not charge the internal battery while switched on. Also, don't forget to disable the speed camera warning function before driving in France ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurwellSupersport Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 some great technical answers here. My thought (cheating) is that i'd buy a power block booster and use that to charge the phone/satnav. Also useful at the destination. I used a Powergen Juice Pack 1200mah (google search = powergen juice pack 12000). Have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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