Big Bad Baz Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 About half a mile from work last night the ignition light came on and has been on ever since. My first thought was "alternator", but are there any other causes? A few weeks back I changed the belt - did I read somewhere on here that over-tightening the belt can knacker the alternator (bearings)? It got me home from work this morning, with no untoward signs, but am I living on borrowed time? (1800 K Series, by the way) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 26, 2014 Member Share Posted June 26, 2014 I'd start by working out if it's a problem with charging or a problem with the warning light. What's the battery voltage at idle and when you rev it faster, say 3,000 rpm? Inspect the warning light lead from the alternator and its connection. Thin and probably Brown/ Yellow. How much play on the longest run of the belt? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 26 Jun 2014 16:10:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark w Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I had this on a rented Book a Track seven at the Nurburgring . Eventually the battery went flat and the car died 🙆🏻 You may be lucky but I would borrow another alternator and see if that cures it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 How much play on the longest run of the belt? My guess would also be that you've done something slightly-silly such as disturbed (or not correctly refitted) the sensor wiring. An over tightened belt can kill the bearings eventually, but it would be unlikely to kill the alternator output (at all / in the meantime, I'd think) and you'd be pretty unlucky for them to have been on the point of failure just when you decided to change the belt. A loose belt could be a cause - but unless it fell straight off (possible!), I'd expect either the charge light to be intermittent (as the belt gripped/slipped according to load, revs etc.) - or for there to be a classic slipping-belt whine. Start with the basics as Jonathan suggests though - what output do you get with a reasonable dose of revs? Note that if you have a dash-mounted voltmeter, it may under-read somewhat depending on the condition of your wiring. My Caterham lives outside and a check on returning home last night confirmed that the SPA voltmeter is under-reading by a consistent 0.5 volts or so compared to what the battery is seeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Thanks for the replies chaps. I checked the belt today and there was a little more play in it than there probably should be, so I tightened it up. And tightened it up a bit more. And then a bit more, just for luck. And then it went "twang" and the bolt has gone all loose. Have I buggered it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 29, 2014 Member Share Posted June 29, 2014 What do you think is damaged? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Quoting Jonathan Kay: What do you think is damaged? The bit that the adjuster bolt bolts into. The whole thing didn't go loose, it's not like my alternator is hanging off or anything, but the tensioner bolt seems to now be ineffective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Sounds like you've cranked up the adjuster bolt too much and have stripped the thread of the bolt and/or the actual adjuster. Can you post up a picture of your setup, as there is more than one alternator setup for a K-series. I have the earlier type using a Lucas A127 lump of an alternator and have spent years and numerous trackdays sorting all the hardware out so that I don't have to worry about bolts breaking/coming loose, belts squealing or whether the adjuster will decide to work or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Quoting Mankee: Can you post up a picture of your setup, as there is more than one alternator setup for a K-series. I'm cooking the Sunday dinner at the moment (a woman's work is never done) but I'll try and get a photo later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/Sciroccology/DSC_9534_11230_zpsc315eb65.jpg "A" is the bolt I tightened. "B" is the bit that went "twang". I've since recharged the battery, reconnected it and started her up. Still the ignition light stays on, despite a few revs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Ah, that looks like the same setup as mine. The crank pulley one has one set of ribs, a la Rover Metro, i.e. no power steering or dry sump belt provision. It looks like you've stripped either or both the bolt and the adjuster, but this should not cause your lack of charging ability if the belt is still spinning the alternator pulley. My alternator needs an initial blip of over 2000rpm to spring it into life. If that still doesn't work, then I'd look at the alternator itself or parts thereof. When mine packed up, one of the brushes in the regulator had broken off. Parts for Lucas A127s are easy to come by and changing the regulator is very easy once you have the alternator off the car. This was what caused my non-charging: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7n5yskl2ptur6nu/DuffRegulator.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Quoting Mankee: My alternator needs an initial blip of over 2000rpm to spring it into life. I was revving it to well over 3000rpm and the light stayed on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I think the alternator is goosed. I had this on an 80's mini and it was the rectifier/diode pack that had failed. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 30, 2014 Member Share Posted June 30, 2014 Do we know yet if it's charging or not? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Right. Finally got the alternator off this morning (I'm on a funny shift this week and don't have much time before or after work). I think that this might be the problem: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/Sciroccology/DSC_9668_11345_zpsf1e984f9.jpg Clearly, something (the new belt?) has been rubbing on this connector and eventually broken it. And then there's the adjuster bracket. It all looks a bit wonky on this side: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/Sciroccology/DSC_9661_11338_zpsb783a4f4.jpg And is there a bit missing on this side (the bit that went "twang")?: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/Sciroccology/DSC_9664_11341_zps956ce81d.jpg So, can the connector in the first picture be repaired or replaced, and where can I get a replacement adjuster bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Is the first picture not the rear (non-belt) side of the alternator? I can't work out in my head the orientation and what it might have been bashing on. Possibly exhaust manifold primary? You've not got anything missing from the adjuster itself, as it just clamps the lower alternator fixing point, as shown by the "clean" area. I think I have one of those sliding bolt things spare somewhere, but you can get them from Rimmers et al.: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID000443 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I agree with Mankee ... if the belt rubbed that end of the alternator ... you have got a real problem !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 You're both absolutely right - it is the opposite end from the belt! I'll try and work out what it's been rubbing on to cause that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Just had a look at an old picture of mine and that terminal isn't even connected, so I think your issue may lie with the alternator itself or parts thereof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Surely it's a bit of a coincidence that this connection - which looks newly worn - has "gone" and my alternator has stopped working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Do you have a random wire floating around near the broken terminal? It looks like the terminal is for an electrical noise suppressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 Quoting Mankee: Do you have a random wire floating around near the broken terminal? It looks like the terminal is for an electrical noise suppressor. No, this connector is connected to another part of the alternator: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b337/Sciroccology/DSC_9672_11349_zpsc439b82c.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bad Baz Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 OK, so where can I get hold of a new alternator? Google searches for "YLE10082" are proving frustrating, but I know how part-specific these cars are and need an exact replacement! Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 22, 2014 Member Share Posted July 22, 2014 Are you sure you want to replace it with something similar, or would you like suggestions on better alternators? Here's a suggested list of alternative part numbers, but it's from a site I've never heard of. Can you remove it, post some photos including the terminals, and tell us what engine you have? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 22 Jul 2014 09:03:38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I had the same problem when looking for a replacement alternator, as there are a million and one different part numbers. However, our cars are (very) light on electrical items, which means we don't need much charging capacity. As long as it is a Lucas A127 with the 3-spade terminal connector, then it will fit and work, even if you have to change the orientation of the mountings by spinning one half of the body. I replaced mine with an LRA00463 from a wedge-shaped Rover 200. And it's perfect if heavy, but they are all heavy anyway. Try something like this: eBay link. If I was in your shoes and if the bearings are fine, I would punt £7.49 on a new regulator and if that fixes your problem, then Bob's your mother's brother. Very easy to change: Another eBay link. If you aren't confident at tackling it yourself, find a local friend alternator/starter/automotive electrical repair place who will normally test it for free (I gave mine a beer token) and advise on cost to fix. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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