Mikey UC Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 K Series with Webers. Replaced my old crossflow with a k series and fired it up for the first time last weekend. Sounds more like a tractor than a K Series, although I’m hoping that’s down to 4 year old petrol in the tank, a hole in the exhaust manifold where the lambda sensor should be (plug on back order) and the webers needing a proper tune. But a few points – there is a section of exposed flywheel on the offside of the engine near the crank sensor, is there a blanking plate for this, or do they all have that. I’m struggling to find the oil pressure connection to the wiring loom, there seems to be a plug next to the oil filter, is this it? Compared to the old crossflow it’s a pretty tight fit, I reckon only 10mm between the water rail and the chassis cross member, the alternator is also pretty close to the chassis, but I’m using a standard Rover pulley at the moment, I’m guessing a Caterham pulley might pull the alternator in a bit. Pickie here. here http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/2620367019 The inlet manifold is a bit pony at the moment as we had to chop and change it to get the Weber filters to poke through the bonnet, but I might get it remade now I have all the right dimensions. Thanks for any help. Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 17 Jun 2014 13:17:10 Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 17 Jun 2014 13:22:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Hi Mikey, Yes the exposed flywheel around the crank sensor concerned me when I first got my car but it appears to be entirely normal and they all have them. There's a thread of mine about it here. Oil pressure wire is yellow with a red strip, terminates beneath the alternator near to the oil filter. The pressure sensor is normally on the external "head" for the oil filter. some have the drillings for them, some don't, and some have the drillings with blanking plugs inserted. Andrew. Edited by - revilla on 17 Jun 2014 10:53:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Also stupid question but the engine doesn’t have a cam belt cover, hoping this won’t be a problem, but was wondering what stops the cam belt slipping off the pulleys…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Pearce Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I wouldn't recommend running without a cambelt cover. Ask Myles or Arnie Webb why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 The bottom pulley has a shroud on the inner side and the inner wall of the pulley on the outside, this keeps the belt in position. Get some covers on it. A Pinto spark plug will work nicely as a blank plug for the lambda sensor till the blank arrives, just cut it down to suit. Just get a shorter alternator belt. Oily Edited by - oilyhands on 17 Jun 2014 12:29:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Thanks revilla for the exposed flywheel – thought I might have to separate the engine and bellhousing. Guess I should try and find a cam belt cover then, pity it looks a bit BDA-ish without it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Pearce Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 When I recently needed to source some covers I got them from BritCar here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 There are loads of old K-series Rovers in the scrapyards. Mostly EU3 engines - the cam covers from them may fit your EU2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Yeah, I had some of the first three-leg timing pulleys and we built the engine without covers to show them off. As an indirect result, I bought a Westie BEC 7several years later and met my partner as a more direct result of that. The rebuilt k-series still doesn't have belt covers (breakdown in communication with the people who put it back together for me) and is shortly to carry me home following its mot earlier today. Make of that what you will, but not fitting the covers has been life-changing in ways I could not foresee at the time! 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Had the car idling nicely but with a slight hesitation when depressing the throttle quickly, which I put down to running a bit lean on undersized idle jets, so booked in to James Whiting next week for an MOT and to sort out the weber jets. However took the car for a bit more of a spirited run up and down my road, when I came back the exhaust was quite smoky with oil seeping out, around the 4 – 1 exhaust manifold collector. I replaced the head gasket myself, so it’s possible I did it incorrectly (but pretty sure the head was torqued back on properly and stretch bolts still within tolerance). Anything else that would cause oil in the exhaust, before I take the head off (again). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Valve stem oil seals? If there's enough oil coming through to noticeably seep through from the exhaust, you should be able to see some sign of where it is coming from. Are the plugs clean or oily and claggy? If you remove the exhaust manifold and look into the ports with a torch, are the exhaust valve stems clean or oily and coked up with cooked oil residue? Edited by - revilla on 5 Aug 2014 09:41:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Many thanks revilla I might give it another run this evening In the hope that as it was the first time the engine had been run properly it might just be burning off some accumulated gunk. Failing that I’ll start with the manifold as you suggested and check exhaust valves, and hope its not the piston rings. Does the k series have a block breather – or does it use just the two on the cam cover ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Just the ones on the cam cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 Still having problems Cylinders 1 & 2 are running lean, plugs are clean and wet when removed and there seems to be oil leaking out of the exhaust manifold at the 4 – 1 collector for both cylinders. The colour tune spark plug glows white showing a lean mixture and altering the Weber mixture screws doesn’t change this. Cylinders 3 and 4 are running rich, plugs are sooty black, the colour tune spark plug glows orange / yellow showing a rich mixture. Did a compression test No1. 210psi No.2 200psi No.3 210psi No.4 210psi. Took the exhaust manifold off but couldn’t see any obvious signs of oil on the valve stems (but quite difficult to see) Would a leaky valve stem oil seal cause the mixture to run lean ? Cheers for any help gents. Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 6 Sep 2014 17:18:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Have you balanced the carbs and ensured that the jettings in both carbs are identical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 Yes, identical jets. Started with the usual 2 ½ turns out on all mixture screws and wound them in until I got the best running. But I couldn’t get 1 & 2 to run richen up. Carbs fairly well balanced with a bit of tube and ear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 Took a whole evening to replace 4 valve stem seals. Can’t believe how small the valve spring collets are. With my neighbour holding an inspection lamp almost on top of the cylinder head and positioning the collets with a pair of tweezers – felt like a game of operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Lol - you just use grease to stick them to your finger/thumb tips and then the the valve stem - just place finger/thumb together on the stem below where the grooves are and sweep up/together into place - takes seconds... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey UC Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Thanks Simonpa Bloonin brill that. I actually ended up gunging the collets to a screw driver and then on to the valve stem. Did the whole lot in about an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now