Titanium7 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Thinking of putting in a bling dash. What's the procedure for removing the scuttle (with heater)? Does it have to be completely taken off or can it be moved forward just to get at the wiring and dash? Any tips and tricks apreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Martyn, Mine's fixed to the bulkhead with rivnuts. Very easy to take off. Worth thinking about using these instead of rivets when putting it back together. Going CF dash?? If so be careful which type you choose, cause mine goes spotty and milky if any water is left on it. Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Chan Posted June 1, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted June 1, 2014 Martyn, I'd drill off all the rivets and leave the vertical bulkhead in situ with the heater, fuse box and other connections left in place. Then as Clive suggests, use 3mm rivnuts when refitting to allow easy access in the future. Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Just to be awkward, I did mine (and have done several times since) without drilling out all the rivets y taking scuttle and bulkhead as one item. Doesn't take long to undo the various things bolted to it (heater, fusebox, inertia switch, heater, heater cable, steering column thing, immobiliser) then it lifts away quite easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Remove screen and undo heated screen wires Remove wipers. Undo wiper wheel boxes Disconnect washer pipe Remove heater. Disconnect all cables/wires passing through bulkhead Remove fixings on baulkhead eg vapour trap, fusebox, inertia switch Undo 2 steering column to chassis bolts Remove 2 horizontal scuttle to chassis fixings (each retained by 2 nuts) Cut through any silicon sealant in joints Drill out one rivet into each side skin at the lower corners Lift off scuttle complete with baulkhead or as Clive suggests: Leave baulkhead in situ and drill out all the rivets, replacing with countersunk rivnuts. Lift off scuttle. Malcolm Edit Must type faster!! Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 1 Jun 2014 23:07:16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 If you leave the bulkhead in situ it can be a bit of a bugger if the channels built in to the scuttle itself slot under the bulkhead (IYSWIM). I wrestled it out and trimmed them down to make it easier in the future. I got some ali rivnuts and screws to replace the rivets, looks smart, but quite time consuming to do! I'd love to replace the ali with carbon some time... 🥰 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted June 2, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted June 2, 2014 On a standard car, I would not drill out all the rivets as others are suggesting. It really does not take much effort to remove the fuse box, inertia switch, and immobiliser etc, steering column fixings etc, and then slitting the sealant where the "tongue" of the vertical section slots into the slot of the horizontal bulkhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Thanks Chaps Seems a pretty straight forward job (famous last words!) Martyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted June 2, 2014 Leadership Team Share Posted June 2, 2014 This is worse than a political debate 😳 I'm in the drill-out-the-rivets party 😬 Much easier in the long run because you can prep the bulkhead to make it easy next time you do it .... with the exception of the rivets removing the bulkhead as well requires a whole load more work! However with regard to fitting new rivnuts and retaining bolts, rather than using M3 or c/sunk rivnuts, add some strips of ally around the edge of the bulkhead (on the rear side) and secure M4 rivnuts in the new ally ... or rather fit the rivnuts and bond the ally/rivnut assembly to the rear of the bulkhead using silicon. This enables the existing 4mm holes to be retained and the scuttle will fit exactly where it was. The 24 new M4 retaining bolts pass through the original bulkhead holes and secure in the new rivnut strip ... the perfect piece of ally is 20mm of edge cut from an old bulkhead but any ally strip would be fine. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I'm in the remove the bulkhead party...but... I have 2 scuttles (with bulkheads). One had Brooklands fitted, the other a full screen, with the wiper system attached to the bulkhead, so I can swap screens in less than 20 minutes, and don't have to carry the wiper motors around if I don't need them (help keep the weight down The fusebox has been moved to the chassis where the wiper motor used to be. Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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