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Vx cooling with 270 bhp engine


captain chaos

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Nope.

 

IS fixed on - but is in reality wedged between the top and bottom headers. I used a couple of the "pull thru" cable tie type things.

 

I have another on the X-flow and here I did some judicious fettling of the plastic mounts that come with the Pacet - and they align with with Ratec standard mounts.

 

D

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Hi

 

Just as an aside...exactly what is the purpose of the smaller bore line which runs from the head (just next to the inlet manifold), to the top of the header tank?

 

I appreciate its part of the cooling system...but is there a particular probelm it solves..or protects us from?

 

Thanks

gary

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Quoting captain chaos: 
Hi

 

Just as an aside...exactly what is the purpose of the smaller bore line which runs from the head (just next to the inlet manifold), to the top of the header tank?

 

I appreciate its part of the cooling system...but is there a particular probelm it solves..or protects us from?

 

Thanks

gary

 

It contains a jiggle valve here

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I used to have problems with the expansion tank leaking out water on a hot day or after a track day session.

 

I replaced loads of things but it just seemed to not be able to cool the small amount of water in the system well enough, I even installed a water swirl tank to try and fix the issue.

 

I eventually threw out the silly small Rover header tank and installed one of the newer, larger header tanks (CSR?) on the front bulk head and replumbed it in. The bigger tank and longer hoses seemed to fix my issue. I see temps 95-100 on track but it never boils over or goes over 100.

 

I can send photos of what I did if required.

 

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I don't have a cooling issue, I clearly don't have enough power 😳

 

I do have a large ali rad, and adjustable thermostat (resister pot type) cut in to the top rad pipe that controls when the fan cuts in. Been fine on track, and in heavy traffic through Rouen on a very hot day on way to Le Mans Classic *cool*

 

 

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Quoting Paul McKenzie: 
It contains a jiggle valve here

 

Yay, I'm famous! Mine doesn't have a jiggle valve, but appears to work fine.

 

/edit. I don't believe that you actually 'need' a jiggle valve, because the feed to the coupling is actually closed by the thermostat when it opens up the flow to the radiator. This means that you only get a flow through the coupler when the engine is cold. If you look at the thermostat side of the head, you can see 2 channels, one of which is the main water flow and the second being the bypass channel that goes to the coupling. You can see how an open thermostat actually closes off the bypass channel. I believe that the benefits of this are that, when the engine is cold, you still get a small flow through the head and out of the coupler, preventing hot spots.

 

I could be wrong, so feel free to point out any glaring errors in my logic.

 

Edited by - keybaud on 10 Jun 2014 19:29:20

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