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Aluminium Bellhouusing


Ken Numsaki

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Hi Seven pilots.

 

I'd like to change iron cast bellhousing to aluminium bell for weight reduction.

My seven does not have a spacer between X-flow( AX block) and Sierra T9 gear box like Caterham.

 

I knew that there are two types of alumi bell in UK, one is standerd other is

include 30mm spacer.

 

Does anyone imform to me which type of bell should I purchase? *confused*

My HEAVY iron bell hight is 7.22" (177mm).

 

Many thanks and happy new year from Japan.

 

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I'm surprised that there's a Caterham with a crossflow and the type 9 box that doesn't use the ali spacer; I would have thought that would put either the engine or the gearbox (and therefore the shift lever)) in a non-standard location...

 

The bellhousing with the integral spacer was made by Flowtech for Caterham. Flowtech went bankrupt some time back. Several people (myself included) have had those bellhousings crack with time; it would seem they might be just a bit too thin and light.

 

When mine cracked I replaced it with an SPC bellhousing and the Caterham ali spacer purchased through Raceline (http://www.raceline.co.uk).

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Thanks for the replies guys. *wink*

 

I checked and understood at SPC Web that there are two types of ford 5 speed gearbox.

My 5s box has short input shaft , then It should be call as Type N ( but I think N means nine? see http://www.domsat.co.uk/pages/gearboxes.htm) .

My Input shaft length ( from box side to 15mm guide shaft top) is 175mm ( about 6.9 inches)

Type 9 inputshaft is 8.1 inches long !.

 

I think that 6.9 inches shaft is same to the Roket 4 speed.

( I looked it at Quaife america http://www.quaifeamerica.com/technical/tech.htm)

 

So my 5s suit for a short type bell much better( not inc spacer),because of it has short input shaft.Is it sure?

 

Cracking is problem.

I think it would be made by heavy iron gear case or only 6 (bolt) points mount to the engine block.

I think that is much better to set the bracket( gusset?) between block under side( use oilpan bolt) and bellhausing lower open bolt hole like Tilton? dry sump.

 

Many thanks the UK. *tongue* *tongue*

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I think the mounting of the starter motor is what causes the cracks to start. It's held by three bolt to the bell housing but unsupported at the other end. Thus there's a substantial cantilevered load on the bellhousing and the vibrations of a 4 cylinder engine don't help matters. The three failures I know of were all on cars that see a lot of track use; it might well never be a problem on the road.
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Thank again for your helpful reply ,felix.

I will be try to make a front mount of starter which you recommend.

 

By the way,

I have been thinking about my x-flow (831C AX) to bore up to 1.7L.

I would like to get more powers to use Cothworth piston,kent 244 cam and alloy head.

And I looking forward to change the bell and gear box to alloy.

Then I'll be get about -20Kgw weight reduction and 150HP??( I hope)

 

Now I have been lightened the original conrod weight from 600gw to 535gw

( less bolts and metal ) by removing the square shape metal (balance weight?) of rod.

Rod balancing of reciprocating/rotating weight (small end and bigend )

equalize to 162g /383g.

It was very tough work for me and very noisy for my wife!

 

Thanks. *wink*

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Hi Ken,

 

When I changed to Zetec, from a 1.6 x/flow, I changed to an RS2000 bellhousing at the same time. This was 8.5kg lighter than the cast iron item and is identical in length.

The only drawback is that it has two starter motor positions, left and right hand side of block. This means you have to fabricate a plate to take the clutch cable and, depending on your chassis age (post 96?) will clash on you chassis. I had to cut the whole spare postion off and then fabricate a plate to cover the hole and added a slot to allow the standard gaiter to be retained. I can sent a couple of pictures if you like, mail me if you want them.

 

Phil Waters

You mean you can drive these?

I thought it was just there to polish 😬

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  • 15 years later...

Gents,

I have an Xflow (96 Caterham Classic) now mated to the escort box.

I have a T9, ali spacer, iron bell and two ali bells with right side starter only.

No Clutch plate or bering.

The man I bought it from said the box had the correct length input shaft.

How can I verify if the shaft length is correct?

(yes, im a novice at this stuff)

Also, could I get a Ford part numbes for the pressure plate, clutch, pilot and throw out bering?

Please copy your answer to a PM for me.

Thanks,

Scott

Houston

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