Ads7 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I have decided that I'm going to tackle changing the clutch on my k series 7 myself. Is there a guide anywhere on engine removal. I hope to do it over a weekend with my dad giving a helping hand. I'm going to be ordering the clutch tomorrow and whilst I'm at it I will be fitting a lightweight flywheel. My shopping list consist of: Clutch and friction plate Clutch release bearing Clutch fork Flywheel Spigot bearing (is this necessary?) Anything else to change whilst the engine is out and split from the box. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Sleeve for spigot bearing. I've always put new flywheel and pressure plate bolts in. You going for the AP uprated clutch kit? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Disconnect everything attached to the engine ... label connectors if unsure where they go. Unbolt primaries from head. Drain cooling system and disconnect hoses that go between engine and fixed stuff. May need to remove alternator to get engine out of car. Disconnect clutch cable Unbolt engine from bellhousing Using engine crane on wheels, with suitable straps and or spreader bar to control angle of engine left, slide engine forwards off shaft and lift it carefully once clear. Well - something like that ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ads7 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Quoting SM25T: Disconnect everything attached to the engine ... label connectors if unsure where they go. Unbolt primaries from head. Drain cooling system and disconnect hoses that go between engine and fixed stuff. May need to remove alternator to get engine out of car. Disconnect clutch cable Unbolt engine from bellhousing Using engine crane on wheels, with suitable straps and or spreader bar to control angle of engine left, slide engine forwards off shaft and lift it carefully once clear. Well - something like that ! So gear box can stay in situ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Adam, Just done mine whilst fitting new box. HUGE thanks to John for his expert hand and patience whilst we tackled what is one of the major jobs. Learnt a lot having removed engine and gearbox. Also enabled me to really check everything e.g. All mounts / brackets and tidy up the wiring including finding and repairing any dodgy connections. As you have listed ....all of this plus coolant (5 litres with heater). Definitely do spigot bearing if it looks worn. We were lucky as the previous was so far in the new one just popped in in front. Got this from Redline. Just changed clutch plate (uprated version from Caterham -44. Got my CRB special order from SKF although suspect its the same as CC ( have this spare at home). If you want to go the whole hog then get a steel version from Burton Power and have machining done ( Redline I believe). Whole thing would be around £100. My CRB was Shot with pieces missing and broke apart as we removed it. Going to do tension mod for preload. About tomorrow early eves if you want to have a chat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Oh forgot exhaust gasket . Did you fit Apollo? Might need to consider best option for removal given my pipes ran through alternator belt. I needed to remove alternator and starter when we removed engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 You can leave gearbox in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ads7 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Thanks for the info guys big help!! Will start stripping it down tomorrow. Paul! Did you use a standard manifold gasket and do you know if the clutch friction plate is a standard rover item. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Exhaust manifold gasket can usually be re-used. Clutch plate is a Ford based item but as CC only supply their own uprated AP item it's best to buy from them. Remove starter but I always managed to remove engine with alternator & Apollo in situ. Don't forget to remove engine diagonals (if removable). Leave clutch cable attached as a gentle press on the clutch pedal often helps separate engine/bell housing once all fixings are removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Adam Make sure you unplug the multiplugs - ask me how I know! Label everything & take pics because you will forget where it all goes. I used bank money bags to label up various bolts in groupings. For goodness sake replace the spigot bearing regardless - a complete false economy not too. Mine failed at Llandow & was a PITA to get the car home again. Assume you've got an engine crane? I found it very straight forward - had it out in less than 3 hours inc tea breaks - again with John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nov-07 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 If removing with Apollo fitted, remember to just crack the main oil pipe joints so that the Apollo can be moved out of the way without removing anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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