Copper grease

[Guest]

Hi

 

I am just starting my kit build and v much a novice mechanic! On the front wishbones it says to use copper grease on the bolts. Do I use the copper grease on the thread of the bold as well or just the main part? I realise it should not be used when loctite is used on the threads. Thanks

[DJ.]

I put copperslip all along the bolt including the thread.

It is also worth covering the spacer sleeves in the dampers.

 

Duncan

[Jonathan Kay]

Thin layer on the threads. If it gets on the shank don't worry. Wipe the outside afterwards if it spills out.

 

NB It isn't good for brake friction surfaces.

 

It's a good idea to dry assemble/ run bolts in and out of threaded components before you do the assembly. If/ when you can't do them up easily have a look in the archives or ask before resorting to brute force: your tools can easily exert enough force to damage threads.

 

Jonathan

[Rob Walker]

Always wondered why they call this stuff copper grease when in fact its made from lead not copper?? B sure to wash your hands after contact its pretty toxic.

[Guest]

Brilliant thanks very much. I think may be the first of many questions!

[Jonathan Kay]

Have you found the 7FAQs?

 

Jonathan

[tbird]

Quoting Rob Walker: 

Always wondered why they call this stuff copper grease when in fact its made from lead not copper?? B sure to wash your hands after contact its pretty toxic.

 

 

are you sure

 

Tim

[Jonathan Kay]

Copaslip datasheet:

GENERAL DESCRIPTION:

COPASLIP® is an anti-seize compound specially formulated to protect against seizure even in extreme conditions of temperature and pressure. It also protects against rust, oxidation and other corrosion. COPASLIP® consists of micro-sized particles of copper in a semi-synthetic base. To these basic anti-seize ingredients are added highly effective oxidation and corrosion inhibitors.

Jonathan

[6speedmanual]

Copper grease is almost obsolete in my car works. If I were building a 7 I think there are better products:

I prefer to use Waxoyl or Dinitrol cavity wax on fixings.

Faxene red rubber grease for helping press in bushes.

And I chose to never put copper grease anywhere near my brakes. I find it drys to leave gungey deposits in places the pads, sliders, etc should be free to move. Here I use Ceratec by Mintex, designed specifically for the purpose of caliper lubrication.

All widely available from motor factors or ebay sellers.

 

Peter

[Rob Walker]

My tin is Rocol anti-seize compound J166 it looks like a copper paste but has the warning, caution. contains lead powder, do not take orally, wash hands after use.

[Jonathan Kay]

Data sheet for ROCOL Anti-Seize Compound J166

 

There's a plaintive blog from ROCOL which includes:

It has come to our attention that there is slight confusion when searching for anti-seize products. Many people are asking for a specific brand instead of the technical description of the product they need and this often results in the wrong product being supplied and ultimately dissatisfaction when the application fails. This is a result of brands’ synonimity with certain applications which becomes misleading for customers trying to find the correct product for the job.

You can feel them wanting to say "Copaslip" but just holding it back at the last moment.

 

Jonathan

[revilla]

Sounds like it's not a particular hazard. Unless you set fire to it or put it on your shoe soles.

[Jonathan Kay]

Occupational lead poisoning in current times is quite interesting. We used to periodically test the blood lead concentration of police who handle firearms and people who make stained glass windows. There's a range of concentrations at which they are "advised" to stay away from the exposure until it's back in an acceptable range.

 

We had to chelate lead from a child a couple of years ago, which isn't too common.

 

Jonathan

[Grim Reaper]

I'm changing to Alumslip or Nickelslip instead of copaslip, better for stainless bolts into aluminium and useable pretty much everywhere copaslip is used.