Brake hose replacement S3 roadsport

[10uptobase]

Plan to replace front and rear hoses in spring service of my Sigma S3 roadsport. Any advice / tips much appreciated!

[Jonathan Kay]

Have you decided whether to use rigid or flexible hoses to the rear calipers?

 

Jonathan

[Richard Price]

Why do you want to replace them?

Unlike rubber hoses, the aeroquip style hoses are PTFE lined which are shrouded with woven stainless steel.

Unless they are damaged, they should not need replacing.

 

 

[Mankee]

If you are sticking with the standard Ford floating rear calipers, changing the solid pipes for the Goodridge items is a good idea. Although there doesn't seem to be many failure, it just seems silly to me to bolt something solid to something else that is supposed to move.

[cj247]

Agreed, flexible rear hoses make sense & I replaced mine this winter.

 

So, if you're using stainless braided hoses with an inner liner then you don't need to replace them as per the Caterham service guidelines-is this correct?

[Bricol]

the problem with the overbraid is while it protects them, you can't see damage inside - the hose itselft cvan be damaged and you not know it until too late.

 

I've heard to replace them at intervals (on another car) but I can't remember the suggested interval.

 

Bri

[TJG]

The service schedule I have for Roadsport and Superlight, all Sigma and Duratech variants reccomends changing brake hoses every four years. As mine came as standard with braided version I guess it refers to them.

 

Tony

[10uptobase]

The service guide I have specifies 4 years (and mine have been on the car for 6! 😳) so I decided to change them - no way to inspect for deterioration under the brade and not a bad price (as CC spares go,) so why risk it was my thought...

 

To re state the question, anyone done the operation??? Was going to change the fluid at the same time (just flush through) and from the build, I remember front fitting is straight forwards, rear any issues though???

 

thanks!

[cj247]

Easy job to change the hoses with an EZ Bleed kit connected to a tyre. I used this to expel the old brake fluid from the systems by undoing each wheel bleed nipple in turn until no more fluid comes out. Remove & replaces hoses as appropriate but pay careful attention not to get any dirt on any of the connectors otherwise you may get a leak.

 

Tighten all nipples & fill EZ Bleed with fresh brake fluid & connect to master cylinder, & clear tube to bleed nipple for each wheel in turn starting from the offside rear, nearside rear, nearside front, & lastly offside front. Bleed each (by undoing a qtr of a turn) until no air bubbles are seen in plastic tube (a clear jam jar makes it easy to see & catch the brake fluid) & tighten nipple. You may need to repeat the process several times but don't let the brake fluid level drop too low in the EZ Bleed or you'll just re-introduce air into the system.

 

Whole process should take no longer than half an hour after which teh brake pedal should be firm.

[10uptobase]

Thanks for that - may have my sone home when I plan the work, so he may have to pump instead of the ezeblled.. Was wondering if there are any access issues to the rear hose?

Anuone know the correct torques for the hose olive nots on the hoses??

[Jonathan Kay]

Quoting 10uptobase: 

Anuone know the correct torques for the hose olive nots on the hoses??

Gently up until they are dry?

 

Jonathan

[Jonathan Kay]

Recent discussion of flushing and bleeding

 

Jonathan

[10uptobase]

Thanks.

[Paul Deslandes]

best way is not to empty system first but just remove and replace the hoses and then flush through with fresh fluid until it runs clear, rather than filling the system with air and then trying to get rid of it. Flushing through will remove virtually all the old fluid and bleeding the system from scratch is a real pain, just read the archives re the rear callipers.

 

If not already done, replace the solid brake line along the dedion tube with flexible hoses while you're at it.

 

Although probably already stated, its also worth re-emphasising:

 

if using an Easibleed, just use it as a means of connecting compressed air to force fluid from the master cylinder into the system. Don't put brake fluid in the Easibleed bottle, just keep the master cylinder topped up as otherwise the risk of fluid spillage and paint damage is quite high.

 

Paul

[Englishmaninwales]

Quoting Paul Deslandes: 

Although probably already stated, its also worth re-emphasising:

 

if using an Easibleed, just use it as a means of connecting compressed air to force fluid from the master cylinder into the system. Don't put brake fluid in the Easibleed bottle, just keep the master cylinder topped up as otherwise the risk of fluid spillage and paint damage is quite high.

 

Paul

 

....and when disconnecting from the master cylinder make sure the pressure is released at the tyre first. No prizes for guessing how I know.......

[10uptobase]

Thanks for all the offerings of advice guys. Have started the job, but am struggling on a couple of points

 

First, when I took off the banjo on one of the front calipers, I noticed the bottom copper washer was smaller in diameter to the top one. On consulting the build guide, it specifically says the smaller washer must be at the bottom. IE between the banjo and the caliper face. Only problem is, the fitting kit supplied by CC with the hoses has 4 large washers. Question is have they supplied the wrong washers or decided that they no longer need to be smaller on the bottom. ( assume this was to seat correctly?)

 

Second problem is how to disconnect the other end. For the life of me can't remember and don't want to strip anything. Should I be holding the union on the end of the braded hose and loosening by unscrewing what I guess will be the olive nut on the inside of the wing? Same fitting on both ended of the rear hose ( which is much easier if you take the boot wooden section of floor out btw)

 

Thanks!

[10uptobase]

Spoke to CC Midlands today. Seems they used to specify a smaller copper washer for the bottom of the front brake hose banjo, but due to it not being easy to spot it has been fitted (post build checks? SVA ?) they switched to large top and bottom, so mystery solved! Swapped all the hoses, filling and bleeding tomorrow....