richy Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 After a blat yesterday, I parked the car on the drive for a few minutes. Tried to restart the engine and it just turns over. Will not fire. Immobiliser lights appear to be working OK, but no noise from the fuel pump. Appears that I'm only getting 4.8V at the pump. I have tried resetting & shorting out the inertia switch, and swapping round the fuel pump relay at the fuse box. Would appreciate any ideas. Thanks in advance. Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Assume voltage across battery is healthy ? I would be looking at connections in the live feed and earths for the fuel pump ? Edited by - SM25T on 17 Mar 2014 18:19:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 When you wave the immobiliser fob near the receiver wire do you hear an audible click (relay) from the immobiliser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 As a quick test, if you have some spare wire and inline fuse with the correct rating, you could connect direct from battery to pump. If it works, you know the fault is in the supply side. Likewise an alternative earth cable can help rule that out as a cause as well. Duncan Edited, My Sigma powered car suffered an immobiliser failiure early on, but both starter and fuel pump were isolated. Edited by - DJ. on 17 Mar 2014 18:45:37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Try unplugging the MAP sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Battery voltage is ok at 13V. Turns over on the starter no problem. Earths all OK. The low voltage at the fuel pump connector is a concern. I would expect 12V. The car was running perfectly before I switched it off. Now it won't fire at all. Believe another member had an ECU failure with these sort of symptoms? Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 As you now have the voltages I'd follow DJ.'s plan. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Do you know of anyone local with the Easymap lead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 It's not the pump - removed the pump fuse and supplied +12V to the fuse holder. Pump runs OK. Also tried same at the inertia switch socket. I suspect the ECU is knackered. Similar to this Getting hold of an Easimap cable tomorrow. Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Just tried to view the ECU data using the Easimap cable. The connector is recognised by the software, but no info is displayed for the ECU. Richy Edited to add: Is there anyone nearby who would be kind enough to let me try my ECU on their car before I spend £90 getting it tested by MBE? Stratford on Avon/Evesham/Moreton area? Edited by - richy on 19 Mar 2014 12:14:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Forgive me if what I'm saying doesn't make any sense - I'm used to standard K-Series ECUs so it might not apply and I don't know anything about the Easimap cable - but it it worth checking the power and earth feeds to the ECU? If you've got resistance somewhere then the ECU will see a reduced voltage, won't be able to switch full voltage out to the pump and probably generally won't boot up, so wouldn't talk to your PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Quoting revilla: Forgive me if what I'm saying doesn't make any sense - I'm used to standard K-Series ECUs so it might not apply and I don't know anything about the Easimap cable - but it it worth checking the power and earth feeds to the ECU? If you've got resistance somewhere then the ECU will see a reduced voltage, won't be able to switch full voltage out to the pump and probably generally won't boot up, so wouldn't talk to your PC. This makes good sense to check the power supply and ground on you ECU especially as its not sending any data to the Easimap lead. I am a bit far for you, but would be willing to see if your ECU is dead on my loom. I wouldn't want to try my ECU on your loom, just in case the loom is killing the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Good advice. I've just checked the power supply and grounds as per the Sigma wiring diagram and SBD Motorsport website as follows; Pin #6 & 7 are grounds. Continuity 0.5 Ohms to battery neg terminal. Pin #10 permanent +12V is good, continuity 0.5 Ohms to battery pos terminal.. Pin #13 switched +12V is good, continuity 0.5 Ohms to battery pos terminal. All OK there then. Pin #17 would be the switched output for the fuel pump and is showing +12V. Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Surely then if the switched pump output from ECU is showing +12V but the pump is only getting 4.8V you've got a wiring fault between the ECU and the pump? If you can check the voltage between the pump terminals and a good earth point, you will be able to tell whether it's the supply wire (you'll get +4.8V on the supply side of the pump and 0V on the earth side of the pump) or the earth wire (you'll get +12V on the supply side of the pump and +7.2V on the earth side of the pump). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Sorry - Pin #17 has +12V on the ECU plug - measured with the ECU disconnected. Probably switches to ground within the ECU to operate the pump relay. Still cannot see any ECU data using the Easimap cable. Need to test on another car to confirm what I should be seeing. Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Update: The diagnostics didn't recognise the ECU. Garth had a spare following his engine upgrade. I've just fitted it, and the engine started first time. MOT tomorrow, so I'll get a run out and see how it goes. Thanks Garth. Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Delighted to hear it works - let me know how it feels as it was re-mapped by the two Steves! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy bell Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I feel youre pain and least you could try another ECU. Sounds exactly like http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=232038 and in the end got MBE to replace PCB for far cheaper than cost of new one from Caterham. Now have another problem appears electrical wise. Either I am cursed or supersports have some strange issues :) Edited by - andy bell on 24 Apr 2014 14:45:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 MOT passed today, so I managed to give it a reasonable test. Garth: Is it me, or is it a smoother power delivery? And slightly less popping & banging? What have the 2Steves changed from the bog standard Caterham map? Anyway, thanks again Garth. It's contacts through the club like this that make membership so rewarding. Hope to see you on the F&C Run on Saturday! Andy: It was that thread that directed me to the root of the problem. Did you send it to SBD for repair? Richy (Blue with yellow stripe - C* RWY) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Planning on being at the fish and chip run will look out for you - my 7 is green with yellow stripe and I will be with my son who is taller than me and bald! Two Steves' map is definitely smoother and they eliminated the 'overrun' fuel which causes the popping and banging (which I missed!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Glad to hear you are back on the road Richy. Mine all good too now, so we'll have to meet up for a blat sometime. (Maybe not today though) Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Cheers Al. Fish & Chips in Wales tomorrow - could be a bit damp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Richy, Andy sent it direct to MBE for repair. If he doesn't pop up, blatmail him for contact details as its worth talking to them on the phone first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy bell Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 yeh worked perfectly for me they basically gave a reduced rate because it was a swap of a bad PCB for a good PCB. Just told them what ECU i needed and away I went - only thing to watch out of for is if you got car as say academy and upgraded to supersport. Just ensure you ask for the supersport ECU and not academy one ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 So, after giving Garth's ECU a good test, I decided to get mine repaired. Tested it on the car and so I now have a spare. Let's hope I don't need it! Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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