Nigel Riches Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 G'day from the land of the long white sheep. Anyone out there in Blatchat world point me to some good clear images of the front tubes across the engine bay on a post 1986 chassis. Some tube surgery is probably going to take place to install the Zetec, this is turning into a work creation scheme, never mind Regards Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweeky Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Might be worth emailing Bruce at Arch....... website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hi What engine do you have currently ? I understood a Zetec would go in anywhere a cross flow had been. May need to put box in first, then engine. Regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I agree with Ian; your zetec should just slot in. My car is from 1987, and I can tell you which tubes Bruce moved to fit my K Series in, from the original XFlow, but I'm sure there'll be plenty of zetec owners along shortly.......... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 If your car has the straight tubes, rather than the crossed tubes at the front then it is a bit tight. I think Brent Chiswick discovered that you had to do the engine and gearbox as a single item as there wasn't enough room to move the engine forwards to allow the input shaft to locate into the spigot bearing. Search in tech talk with brent and zetec and have a read, i got a lot of good info when i did my zetec conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gaines Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I have a 1997 chassis with the straight tubes. I have a 2l blacktop zetec inside. You will need to remove the front pulley and the angle will be steep when you put the engine and box in but it will go. tape the top tube to protect it. There are only a few mm in it. Regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mirylees Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hi Nigel, I think that you'll probably need to get the chassis mods done as the mill sits like this in my 1988 chassis (I rebuilt the car in 1988 just to get the modified chassis to take an engine with the cam[belt!!) Some pics that may help? pic 1 pic 2 pic 3 The chassis model pic I found recently when I want to put some holes in my inner skin for ACF 50 treatment...(may not be totally accurate though) Hope they help Bruce is really your best bet to aid doing it properly Edited by - David Mirylees on 2 Mar 2014 19:15:14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnitzel Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 without modification is not possible to fit in an early chassis. you must cut out the rail and reweld new tubes. I have got the same problem mine is from 1985. The chassis from Dartford production are different, easyer to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Mine is a 1996 chassis with 'straight' bars. As john said above, you need to remove pulley & a big steep angle to get it in. It does fit with a 5 spd box & raceline bellhousing. Mine doesnt have a space between box & bellhousing which prob made it easier!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 If you bm me i can try to send a few photos. But dont cut the chassis- no need. The aux belt around water pump & alternator is very very tight but can be done also! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thank you gentlemen. I have not got to the stage of actually offering the engine into the engine bay, but I did take a measurement of the distance from the rear face of the block too the front edge of the alternator belt, being 485mm, which at this time would have the belt fouling on the top cross tube, plus the pulley adds a further 2.5mm. I used this position to reference the engine length as the zetec will mate to a 5 speed box at the same place as the x flow installed presently. May be able to mount the alternator on the nearside of the engine, but then I think there is a problem with the water pump rotation direction 🙆🏻. Oh well, flog on rewardless, and once again, thank you. Nigel. I have e-mailed Arch for material specification if the tube cutting eventuates, which I hope to avoid. The chassis is 1982 vintage, so possibly a bit different to the later ones from Dartford, as has been suggested above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hi Nigel, I have a 1986 Live Axle chassis with an 1800 Zetec fitted. It is mated to the 4 speed Escort sport box rather than the 5 speed. The engine will drop in, but the gearbox needs to be moved back - disconnect the prop shaft from the diff, remove the gearbox maounting bolts and it should slide back about 4 inches. It is just enough to get the engine in. It is also possible with the gearbox mated to the engine and slide them both in togther. I've done both, and can't say which is better - they are both tight and knuckle skinning! Good luck, Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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