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Strapping car to trailer (Was: Cutting steel - trailer base)


Roger Ford

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I also have a covered trailer ie PRG Pro Sporter which is a great trailer, But no access to the front wheels once loaded, Hence why I modified mine to use vertical lashings up and over the rear tyres and also to avoid any stress on the chassis. The car will never go anywhere with just the rears lashed down, Or at least until the trailer is rolled heaven forbid, But then it would remain in the box i expect.

The important thing is to have the U bolts in the centre of the tyre track and also they need to slide up and down, They drop down flush for loading and just lift slightly for clearance of the webbing, The webbing runs parallel to the trailer floor and a U bolt plate with nylocks so when pulled tight the U bolt plate come up flush under the trailer floor. I made a bracket / lug with a ratchet strap mounting hole in it which bolts to the rear axle mounting bolt on the trailer floor and is close against outside edge of trailer vertical edge so is out of the way of front tyre for loading. Excess material from the straps can be cut and ends heat sealed to stop fraying.

I bought my bits from www.ate-uk.com

I have just finished an underfloor storage area tray which is an ally pan folded and with the seams welded is water proof,This lays between and behind the two axles and is the full width of the buffalo board decking, Which the piece cut out of the floor is now the lid of this storage area, This will hold a pair of driveshafts, rear bearings carriers, trolly jack, nuts and bolts and any other heavy or may be required items. Ok no access to it with car loaded but only a couple of minutes to unload.

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  • 2 months later...

has anyone ever found a problem with your car bouncing during transit and ending up that its hard against one side. Unfortunately i have a covered trailer (fortunate if it rains) which means that if the car does jump i have to jack it up at the back (on the trailer) and then hope i can get it out.

 

I must admit due to the difficult getting to side i sometimes use the towing eye(s) to secure it down (yes terrible i know) and i guess this is cause of the bounce - as suspension is effectively negated at this part. I try not to do this any more though.

 

Just wondering if you did eventually end up just securing back wheels and then using the winch for front? Given you have had 1 test day and 1 race roger i am hoping you now know answer!

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Yes, back wheels are held down with the wheel nets and front just secured with the winch. No sign of it moving anywhere.

 

My plan to use loops on the trailer base didn't work. The front of the wheel net strap is too long, if it was fixed to a loop it would have to stick out so far that it would have fouled the wing / exhaust. So I cut slots in the trailer base and fixed the hooks through those.

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I have added one of these here to each ratchet strap. The ratchet sits on the bed of the trailer forward of the rear wheels. The strap goes through the hook, which sits in one of the conveniently placed holes in my BJ trailer, over the rear wheel and hooks to another conveniently placed hole in the trailer.

 

PaulB

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gone same route and stuff just delivered so will post pics (and how long it takes to load) once complete. Great suggestions!

 

So decided to time how long it took without any thinking about it (so worst case) and took 5 minutes including trying different bits for back. The bit towards front of car is rock solid (here) and great idea for how right it can be but back I think will need to work on as slightly loose even in both circled area (here). There just doesn't seem to be enough to go through a loop then tighten so may need something like this just to really tighten

 

Edited by - andy bell on 4 Apr 2014 18:18:47

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  • 2 years later...

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