AntonyH Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Kind of technical... Detached unheated garage, single skin brick walls (waterproofed), single skin steel sheet roof on wooden joists, concrete slab floor. Air brick high up near back of garage, plus the roller door does not hermetically seal at the bottom and definitely not at the top. Dry inside plus a dehumidifier to take care of the excess if e.g. it's raining when we get home and the 7 goes away damp. Considering insulating the roof with a ply inner skin and some fluffy stuff in the gap, just to keep the temperature a little more stable; opinions on whether this will be of any benefit (beyond being a fraction warmer if working out there in the winter!)? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Certainly stops condensation on the inside of the tin roof and then it dripping off on you, car, tools etc. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy7 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I don't think it'll make a difference at all. If you are getting condensation dripping off the roof you could always line the underside of the joists with visqueen (polythene sheet) or buy a breathable car cover. Might also be an idea to put some visqueen on the concrete floor under the car possibly with some carpet on top. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 2, 2013 Member Share Posted November 2, 2013 Are you planning to heat it? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7TOM Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Hi Condensation is all about the dew point witch basically is a calculation between the outside temperature the inside temperature and the humidity in the air. Insulating the roof will stop the condensation on roof panels as this will keep them nearer the temperature so the outside of the panel so should help if there are no other issues with the walls and floor that may cause high humidity . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Quoting Jonathan Kay: Are you planning to heat it? Jonathan Not routinely, no. Maybe a modest electric heater if I'm actually in there doing something, but that would be it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 I think you'll struggle to de-humidify the atmosphere. If you want to do it just in your garage it has to be fairly tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siva Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 I think you'll struggle to de-humidify the atmosphere go for it. If you make it work, mine will be dry too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Faulkner Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 The description of your garage sounds very similar to mine apart from it being detached and I use a dehumidifier judiciously. I covered the garage floor with industrial quality sheet vinyl and have found that it has cut down greatly on the problem of damp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Biddle Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Get a carcoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 4, 2013 Leadership Team Share Posted November 4, 2013 Insulate Your garage is the same construction as mine except for the steel roof, mine is felt and tiles therefore will not suffer from condensation as badly. Is the roof at a high pitch or is it fairly low? My choice would be to insulate with a separate barrier below the steel sheet with the air brick then in the created cavity ... effectively similar to an insulated loft. Adding insulation directly to the steel sheet may cause a bigger damp problem, modern insulated roofing sheet has the layers bonded together preventing moisture ingress, you're not going to be able to reproduce that. Maybe consider a suspended ceiling as the method of insulation? Reducing damp is the key to keeping warm, only then can you add more heat if you need it. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonyH Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Thanks all for the suggestions / input. Stu, sadly the roof is very nearly flat (very gentle incline to the rear) and the bottoms of the beams are not much over head height, plus the air brick is about my head height, so a suspended ceiling with a void to encompass the air brick isn't feasible unless I want to stoop! Best I can manage is a lower skin at the level of the bottom of the beams. Siva, if your garage isn't below the surrounding ground level then this water seal from Wickes might help - made a huge difference to the water ingress in ours. You need to make sure the pointing's all good first (no big gaps and cracks) then just brush it on to the brickwork. It soaks in then sets to form a waterproof barrier (apparently). Changed our walls from being a masonry sponge into something that actually holds out almost all water. Just a couple of tiny leaks now, one where I hadn't done the pointing in a gap (D'oH!) and one where we maybe just missed a bit. PS. When it says "use in a well ventilated area" it really isn't kidding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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