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To flush or not to flush, that is the question


prs

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OK, so when doing an oil change what are the benefits of using these flush liquids which you pour in and then run the engine on a fast idle for ten minutes or so before you drain. How good are they, are they worth using or is it just a waste of time and money. Any thoughts on this. Phil.

 

Blatting on the A44 has never been better *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup*

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My seven had been laid up for at least 6 months before I bought. It had only done 500 miles in 2 years Consequently the oil looked like a congealed mess when cold. Wynns engine flush run round at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes cleared it fantastically, plus a load of other crap too. Certainly recommend it if you're in my position. I'll do the same for the next change and not bother again.
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Do not use flushing fluid on a hydraulic valve engine ☹️

My friend had his Masda engine messed up by a garage because of this.

Can't remember why but the main agent explained never use flushing fluids on hydraulic valve engines, don't take the risk.

 

Richard in France

Awaiting chassis to start building my Duratec 7 😬 *thumbup*

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A slight hijack, but possibly still relevant - assuming that you use a good quality synthetic oil and change the oil regularly, how good a job does the oil do of removing any sludge that might have been present in the engine/old oil?

 

Guess what I'm asking is, I assume modern oils have something in them to stop them from going sludge like, and to help break up any sludge already present?

 

Cheers,

 

Den

 

😬 - Self portrait - still unable to remove the smile!

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Unless the oil is badly degraded do not use engine flush as it is like parafen thiners etc. and washes all the oil out of the engine components and what is left in after draining it out will dilute the new oil a little.

 

Just run the car regularly and change the oil at least twice a summer season and after or before track days.

 

Use a good oil.

 

Paul.

See My Car Here

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modern oil has various cleaning agents in it. The idea is that all the gunk is flushed round the filter and trapped there.

 

Old fashioned oils let all the crud sit in the bottom of the sump and wherever it feels like it. My parents have an almost vintage car that needed this sort of oil. It ran out in a trip to the continent (despite having a 5 gallon drum - The "Circuit de Ramparts" race round Angouleme caused it to burn a load of oil) sowe had to use normal oil. After about 10 miles the gunk that was packing out the main bearings and big ends got flushed clean and all sort of nasty bottom end noises started ☹️

 

When it had its annual service the engine work (new bearings etc - well actually it uses poured white metal instead of bearings I think) included plumbing in a filter so it can run with modern oil.

 

HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU

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Am i correct in thinking that because the K-series is canted over in the chassis that there will always be some oil left in the head ? (unless its been drilled as a few people here seem to have done).

 

If I am right then it means that not all of the flusher will get drained out properly and will therefore dilute the new oil.

 

Nick

P8MRA - The green one with red wings.

Which is now bent ☹️ 🙆🏻 *mad* ☹️ 🙆🏻 *mad* ☹️ 🙆🏻 *mad* ☹️ 🙆🏻 *mad* ☹️ but is being fixed *thumbup* *smile*

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engine flushers are not usually a good thing. I only recommend them to our dealers if they are specifically trying to flush out a very badly gunked engine.

 

You will get some carry over of the old oil when you change oil purely from the dead volume in the oilways etc.. Its not a problem because the new fresh oil will soon deal with any unwanted nasties. Not that there should be any if you are using good quality oils.

 

 

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Steve - I'm using Mobil 1 Motorsport as that's what Roger King suggested. *thumbup*

 

I was just wondering if there was any need for additives at all, I wondered if a good oil would clean any sludge that existed out anyway. I guess like oil additives etc, they are mainly a placebo.

 

Den

 

😬 - Self portrait - still unable to remove the smile!

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Additives are snakeoil, Flush may be necessary is the engine oil has congealed..

 

The Mobil 1, is that the 15w50 stuff? The XF needs a 'thicker' oil than say the VX.

When I took the sump off my 1st 7 after some 11000 miles it was clean too.

The Synerg is recommended for VX's upto a certain power and then it's mobile 1 15w50 that some use.

 

I wouldn't worry about it. Use the good quality stuff.

 

/Steve

 

My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here

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here

 

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 28 Nov 2002 13:43:35

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