MereCat Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Anyone experience this ? Fitted a brize last year ( less than a year old) and have recently,after spending the winter in the garage experienced the dreaded K click ☹️ Wondered if this is just me or more common and what options I have to fix ( including sending back to Brize?) ? Cheers Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 You need to work out if it is the tiny relay in the MFRU box (easy to bypass with external relay), dirty live or earth connections on fat cables, or damaged small cable to solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Yeah the K click is nought to do with Brise its the wiring going to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Lots and lots and lots and lots in the archives... I'm very happy that there are people working this stuff out and getting their hands dirty fixing stuff, I do think it's a bit simplistic to state that it's down to any one thing though. There are many significant contributing factors to this problem I will start the list: 1. 'Cooking' the starter motor under the exhaust primaries - I have rebuilt the solenoid and cleaned up the pitted piston a couple of times to address this 2. MFRU relay not up to scratch - I have put another relay in-line to fix this ('relay mod') 3. Low tension wiring to solenoid - I ran a separate cable alongside the original one with a switch so that I could alternate between one and the other when the fault occurred so that I could prove to myself what was causing it. Each time the click happened, flicking the switch and trying again worked 4. Battery master switch - I replaced this with a new one to get it working again 5. New starter motor and solenoid 6. New battery - having not replaced the battery since I bought the car in 2003 (I think) I replaced the battery last year to fix the click problem Each of these fixes have stopped the problem from happening (for a bit). This demonstrates to me that there are many different causes for the symptoms - all related to not enough juice getting to the starter motor itself. I think that all of the components in the chain degrade over time and replacing any one of them will normally put you back above the failure threshold. The only one I never got around to replacing was the HT cable running from the FIA key to the starter motor, that was the next fix I was keeping in reserve for the next time it started clicking, but I've sold the engine, loom and starter motor now! C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dany Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 so far, i have tried everything to sort out this click probleme. everything work, but only for a short time. i have fitted a longacre heavy duty switch (40 amp), and a direct 2.5 mm wire from switch to solenoid. works perfectly and i wich i had done this before. just make sure your start buton can hold at least 30 amps. just my opinion cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Quoting Dany: just make sure your start buton can hold at least 30 amps. Start button? That's only got to provide current to the relay. Shouldn't be anything like 30 amps. Or do you mean ignition switch? Mine bypasses the ignition switch, so I don't have that problem, but it does mean you can operate the start without the ignition on, which sometimes causes me confusion, and is a potential issue with "button pokers". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheldon Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Fit a Powerlite 430 and all will be solved. It has everything to do with the starter and not the wiring Powerlite Spec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Quoting ssheldon: Fit a Powerlite 430 and all will be solved. It has everything to do with the starter and not the wiring Powerlite Spec If that were true then the relay mod would never have fixed the issue in any of the starter click problems that people have experienced in the past... Edited by - charlie_pank on 16 May 2013 16:46:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dany Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Quoting Roger Ford: Quoting Dany: just make sure your start buton can hold at least 30 amps. Start button? That's only got to provide current to the relay. Shouldn't be anything like 30 amps. Or do you mean ignition switch? Mine bypasses the ignition switch, so I don't have that problem, but it does mean you can operate the start without the ignition on, which sometimes causes me confusion, and is a potential issue with "button pokers". my mistake, yes ignition switch . like this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Should still be relayed,Use whatever Sw to feed relay coil fraction of an Amp and feed relay from battery with 4mm cable and take relay output to solenoid again 4 mm cable. Ign sw is irrelevant as its through a relay in MFRU anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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